Adsense

Esmeraldas Milk

by Salgado
Info Details
Country Argentina   
Type Milk Chocolate   (38%)
Strain Esmeraldas   
Source Ecuador   
Flavor Spices & Herbs   
Style Old School      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Swears by the Sophisticratic Oath: 1st do no harm & 2nd K.I.S.S. (Keep It Serenely Simple) in concert with the 8th Law of Chocodynamics.
Appearance   4.5 / 5
Color: golden biege
Surface: airholes dot the surface
Temper: semi-gloss
Snap: heavy for a Milk (lots of well-tempered butter)
Aroma   8.9 / 10
luxury Milk Dud™: cocoa dust sprayed over rich flowing cream -> queso manchego on the rundown yielding brined nuts rolled in grass
Mouthfeel   11.7 / 15
Texture: this Silk Road paved w/ granules & powdered chunks
Melt: lurches to full roundness
Flavor   46.4 / 50
instant cocoa cream -> macadamia -> evanescent mint / wintergreen -> golden hay & strawgrass -> extremely subtle clove -> buttered pecan -> soft vanilla caramel (neither added) rolls for hours... to young flesh coconut -> delicately stacks entire progression vertically, beautifully -> umami at the back
Quality   17.6 / 20
Shocks & rocks in a quiet way.

Nothing in Salgado's Ecuador portfolio to date (mostly disasters: Arriba & this bar’s 70% sibling) prepares for this.

Esmeraldas' inherent dairy tones layered in complimentary formation with whole milk, & together they let off something special. The fact of this bar being overly sweet (sugar the lead ingredient) & Texture no match for taste (except toward its round finish), can easily be overlooked by a flavor packet with a range rarely seen in the Milk Choc category. Especially those mint eurythmics, all curling at a tranquil subliminal level.

One instance in which Salgado's deep roasting style turns into an advantage, as the soot in its Esmeraldas 88% fertilizes the regrowth & the spring grass here, while the varietal’s fleeting fruit-acids crosshatch into mentholated offerings just at the edge of detection.

The only drawback: given its fragile nature, can it be duplicated bar-to-bar, batch-to-batch, bud-to-bud (cacáo bud to taste bud)?

ING: sugar, cacáo butter, milk powder, cocoa mass, soya lecithin

Reviewed June 2009

  

Signup for our free Newsletter

Signup for our free Newsletter

Join our mailing list to receive the latest news and updates from the C-spot.

You have Successfully Subscribed!

Pin It on Pinterest