Esmeraldas Milk

by Salgado
Info Details
Country Argentina   
Type Milk Chocolate   (38%)
Strain Esmeraldas   
Source Ecuador   
Flavor Spices & Herbs   
Style Old School      
Swears by the Sophisticratic Oath: 1st do no harm & 2nd K.I.S.S. (Keep It Serenely Simple) in concert with the 8th Law of Chocodynamics.
Appearance   4.5 / 5
Color: golden biege
Surface: airholes dot the surface
Temper: semi-gloss
Snap: heavy for a Milk (lots of well-tempered butter)
Aroma   8.9 / 10
luxury Milk Dud™: cocoa dust sprayed over rich flowing cream -> queso manchego on the rundown yielding brined nuts rolled in grass
Mouthfeel   11.7 / 15
Texture: this Silk Road paved w/ granules & powdered chunks
Melt: lurches to full roundness
Flavor   46.4 / 50
instant cocoa cream -> macadamia -> evanescent mint / wintergreen -> golden hay & strawgrass -> extremely subtle clove -> buttered pecan -> soft vanilla caramel (neither added) rolls for hours... to young flesh coconut -> delicately stacks entire progression vertically, beautifully -> umami at the back
Quality   17.6 / 20
Shocks & rocks in a quiet way.

Nothing in Salgado's Ecuador portfolio to date (mostly disasters: Arriba & this bar’s 70% sibling) prepares for this.

Esmeraldas' inherent dairy tones layered in complimentary formation with whole milk, & together they let off something special. The fact of this bar being overly sweet (sugar the lead ingredient) & Texture no match for taste (except toward its round finish), can easily be overlooked by a flavor packet with a range rarely seen in the Milk Choc category. Especially those mint eurythmics, all curling at a tranquil subliminal level.

One instance in which Salgado's deep roasting style turns into an advantage, as the soot in its Esmeraldas 88% fertilizes the regrowth & the spring grass here, while the varietal’s fleeting fruit-acids crosshatch into mentholated offerings just at the edge of detection.

The only drawback: given its fragile nature, can it be duplicated bar-to-bar, batch-to-batch, bud-to-bud (cacáo bud to taste bud)?

ING: sugar, cacáo butter, milk powder, cocoa mass, soya lecithin

Reviewed June 2009


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