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Nibs

by Malie Kai
Info Details
Country USA   (via Guittard)
Type Nibs   
Strain Hybrid   
Source Hawai'i USA   (Oahu, HI; Waialua Estate)
Flavor Crossover   
Style Classic      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
These Nibs are all malie kai (Hawai’ian for ‘calm seas’), nakedly undululating... until at bitter-end they kick up a storm-surge. Even then that's just body surfing.

Hawai’i - definitely on the cacáo map.
Appearance   4.8 / 5
Color: tanned sandalwood
Surface: very clean winnowing
Temper: well-defined break lines
Snap: n/a
Aroma   9.2 / 10
lovely imprint: atemoya, ‘ohelo, + plum atop sandalwood -> mineral glints (pink chert & red carnelian) -> turns vegetal (grass & fiddleheads)
Mouthfeel   12.6 / 15
Texture: responsive to heat & pressure; no painful macro-crunch
Melt: latent but good butter characteristics
Flavor   45.9 / 50
splays fine cocoa dust -> drier cocoa -> roasted kukul nuts -> smoked sandalwood -> mineral flares (pink chert turns over silver & white quartz) -> first real bitter hit (polymerized lattice work of quite tolerable tannins) -> subsoil components (including fungi & writhing worms) -> slams out Kona coffee
Quality   18.7 / 20
Gentle compared to other Nibs; merely hints at the Hi-C ocean spray of Madagascar (Tcho; Patric) & avoids for the most part the brutal attacks out of West Africa (Scharffen-Berger).

Much more reminiscent of Plantations’ Nibs with which it shares a similar rating but those are chocolate-covered, these are a pure-play.

Assiduously roasted & winnowed, furnishing a window onto just how kind Hawai’ian chocolate could be (especially gleaned in the Aroma) though somewhat slight in core-cocoa flavor.

Good genes, territory & weather lock in natural sweetness.

ING: cocoa nibs

Reviewed Autumn 2010

  

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