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Madagascar Milk

by Soma
Info Details
Country Canada   
Type Dark-Milk   (48%)
Strain Hybrid   (modest Criollo)
Source Madagascar   (Sambirano Valley)
Flavor Crossover   (Earthen x Twang)
Style New School      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
The obvious parallel to draw: Cluizel’s gold standard for this pairing (Madagascar and Milk; or any Milk Choc for that matter): Magaro Lait. Indeed, a couple of Soma’s bars loosely track Cluizel’s formulations.

In the years since Mangaro Lait has been released, the novelty has worn off some (or extended in the case of Coppeneur’s version, with Nibs no less)... seems so last millennium... the kind of stuff on daytime TV cooking shows.

A bar for those who’ve sworn off Milk Chocolate & given it up, whether for a week or a year, this will help you conquer your willpower.
Appearance   3.4 / 5
Color: the ‘Red Island’ & white milk combine for coral pink etched in brown
Surface: fuzzy
Temper: terrorizing plastic-wrapper transfer (packaging way too tight... oversized trying to fit into a mini-skirt)
Snap: sappy
Aroma   8.9 / 10
big, brown, & overpowering: magma of thick viscous volcanic-caramel in a preemptive stripe -> deadly crush from malted cocoa, bahri dates, & royal black mulberries in & around milk swirls -> clove, vanilla & honey-plasma... all together bury every sniff of Madagascar’s trademark fruits save one: strawberry leather
Mouthfeel   12.7 / 15
Texture: a paunchy heavyweight
Melt: slow & protracted
Flavor   46 / 50
classic caramel (long, twisted, & malted) -> strawberry apparition turns to berry fruit rolled in more caramel underpinnings, flushed in cocoa -> lemon cleanser streaks across to shed light in dark corners like a siren coming in from the distance, sweetens to peaches followed by langsat (think litchi), then ripe grapefruit -> wraps on a vanilla Milk Choc kill-shot
Quality   18.3 / 20
Though this lacks regal French elegance of Cluizel’s Magaro Lait, it hits with much greater weight (whole milk powder sees to that) while still preserving the origin’s touted acidity.

Milk here more than just makes its presence tasted; it takes all the glaring brightness found in Soma’s twitchy MAD-70 &, along with sugar, transmutes that into fresh strawberry + squeezed lemon, the latter conjuring up Java Milks minus the smoke effects.

Texture, built on cacáo butter & dairy fat, then enhanced by lecithin, perfectly fits to suit the Flavor packet & provide extra length.

ING: cocoa mass, sugar, whole milk pwdr, cacáo butter, vanilla, soy lecithin

Reviewed Spring 2010

  

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