Bianco Liquirizia

by Domori
Info Details
Country Italy   
Type Flavored   (Licorice; White Chocolate; Lot #NFQ9.02)
Strain Amazon   
Source Peru   
Flavor Spices & Herbs   (& Earthen too)
Style New School      
White Chocolate is criminal to the hardcore Dark cognoscenti. They think it should be illegal. Hmmm, if lines of uncut cocaine & black-tar heroin-balloons tasted this sweet together, we’d all be getting high for breakfast (actually, some of us are).

And were it to have the same effect as those two controlled substances, the 5 Families comprising the NYC Syndicate would be working for Domori... who ain’t saying nothin' or cooperating at all (true omertà honor-code) - about the secrets contained within because he knows they’re just a bunch of guys killing their best friends. (Witness protection program? Good luck.)

Not a White for pure White-lovers either. Made for only a select few who understand the total, masterful control of flavor, texture & physics. An exercise in an unlikely flavor combine, right up there with the Mormon Tabernacle Choir singing ACDC’s Big Balls.

And then some...

... above & beyond: a bar that spurs Spock to a cold start of the warp engines with damaged dilithium crystals. “F-me, Jim, it worked…we’re @ Warp 9.5”.

Rarified groupies of true artisan fare - line up here for a hit... it’ll b-l-o-w you far, far A  W    A        Y.
Appearance   4.1 / 5
another perfectly, Alfa Romeo-styled packaged beauty from Domori; matching mylar inner lining
Color: mottled pewter / cappuccino
Surface: clean tile plate
Temper: glass
Snap: substantial physique balks & screeches at being snapped
Aroma   5.3 / 10
stale caramel encased in dry-wall sheet rock along w/ Rafflesia arnoldii (aka ‘corpse flower’ b/c it smells like rotting flesh) -> caulk -> casein milk proteins (where’s licorice? where’s White Choc?) -> dirty butterscotch -> mole-asses -> turpentine / machine oil
Mouthfeel   12.1 / 15
Texture: some grain; thicker than her sister whites but in true Domori style, well proportioned in ratio to yield a gentle mouth, tooth & melt
Melt: turgid without clogging taste buds
Flavor   45.6 / 50
utterly defies the Aroma: vanilla stick butterscotching thru fine cacáo butter -> comes out primordial musky licorice -> swirls into umami spirals -> melted butter-pecan ice-cream -> dulce de leche -> bay leaf & long thyme in the after-life but also some spray-dried milk powder, then finally pure licorice root brings up the rear, now tamed by the White carpet entrance of cocoa-butter / milk solids
Quality   18.2 / 20
Unreal, especially considering the odors from which it overcomes.

Theobroma cacao may be the food of the gods from which all chocolate derives but the nose on this lends credence - only preliminarily & temporarily - to the Dark hardcore groupies' fear that the gods have stolen ‘real chocolate’, extracted out the good stuff for themselves & their angels’ share, leaving behind for us mere mortals only its relatively bland oil which hardens into cocoa butter – the base for White Chocolate confections. Were it not for that, this would be pulling down all 5-pods on the seismic meter of ratings.

An unexpected pairing that works on its own terms. No battle / clashes of these titans; a Vacheron Constantin of a bar - rarefied, controlled, precision-crafted. Domori backs off the usual heavy-handed cocoa butter / cream / sugar throttle experienced in most Whites. Spice / heat of the licorice bridged here by quality of ingredients, understanding of balance, & grace of the high notes between cacáo ‘n sugar.

Licorice blends almost invisibly & balances this bar of good White Chocolate instincts which tenderly tucks it in, subsuming its bitterness by transmuting into savored elements, then leaving only its sweet perfume Glycyrrhizin. No ordinary licorice could prove such flexibility & stamina. Domori employs a variety from Calabria located at the toe of the Italian penisula where the tradition of licorice making extends back for centuries... about the same length this Flavor lasts.

All so-called chocolatiers who blend pig fat with low-grade Callebaut & call it “cutting edge”… just STFU, taste this stuff, & LEARN. (TO: Vosges; FROM: Mr. Domori... just ripped off your head & dumped down your neck… without even breaking a sweat.

ING: sugar, cacáo butter, powdered milk, licorice (2.5%), vanilla, soy lecithin

Reviewed Autumn 2010


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