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Urrutia w/ Nibs

by Idilio
Info Details
Country Switzerland   (via Felchlin)
Type Dark   (70% w/ Nibs; Lot #L81143 14 19)
Strain Carenero   
Source Venezuela   (Barlovento)
Flavor Crossover   
Style Classic      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
In the Caura Forest, south of Barlovento, Venezuela from where this cacáo hails, lurk big bullet ants called hormiga veinticuatro (24-hour ants) since their intense sting gives anyone with whom they come into contact the uncontrollable shakes for a whole day.

Justin O. Schmidt, the entomologist whose name graces The Schmidt Sting Index, rated the relative intensity caused by the stings of nearly 80 species of insects in the Hymenoptera order -- which includes wasps, bees, & ants. He subjected himself to stings, ranking & describing them in colorful detail – much like the C-spot™ does for chocolate. The Veinticuatro received his highest rating at 4.0+ because they feel "pure... brilliant... like walking over flaming charcoal with a 3-inch nail in your heel".

The Nibs in this do the same – stinging the taste-buds in an entirely good way – then balms them in the emollience of cocoa butter from the smooth chocolate portion of the bar.

The yin-yang of pleasure & pain.
Appearance   4.4 / 5
Color: dirt brown
Surface: extreme clean upfront; Nibs & oil slicks on back
Temper: muddy & opaque
Snap: cracker barrel
Aroma   8.3 / 10
sharp tobacco leaf spiced in vanilla & mace cuts a devil’s cake of chocolate... dark thick paste -> leather ‘n oak buttress some smoking caramel -> dense fudge hole at the bottom filled w/ flickering papaya
Mouthfeel   14.5 / 15
Texture: good mouth... contrasting soft-crunch / unctuous-butter
Melt: controlled chaos
Flavor   47.9 / 50
attacks out the gate w/ that papaya against a solid chocolate baseboard -> piercing Nibs bring a nut-counter (pistachio & roasted cashew) -> soft honey-caramel in the now swollen underbelly -> intensely deep charcoal brownie spiced w/ vanilla-nutmeg, moistened by light lychee & mango -> minor green leaf tobacco around the edges -> sweats out more fruited chocolate... for days
Quality   19 / 20
A thoroughbred stinger... no let up from the starting block to the after finish. Idilio / Flechlin carefully superintending the process; marksmen really, sniping every facet. That includes abandoning Felchlin's fabled longitudinal conch for a modern round one that better handles the volatiles.

Maybe a tad hot on the roaster button... just quibbles really in a bar that beautifully harmonizes the fruits... all of them.

Usually a hybrid such as Nibs in Chocolate takes on less fruit than a chocolate bar alone without Nibs. This does just the opposite.

In a portfolio that sports several really good bars, this is a great one. Very deserving of high marks, the upper extension of a steadily progressive line quite unlike the shock of Bessone's chart topping aberration.

ING: cocoa mass, sugar, cacáo butter, nibs

Reviewed Summer 2010

  

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