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Milk Chocolate

by Madécasse
Info Details
Country Madagascar   
Type Dark-Milk   (44%)
Strain Hybrid   
Source Madagascar   
Flavor Crossover   
Style Rustic      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Sometimes Brett Beach, the spirit-trust behind the social venture called Madécasse, must feel that he’s still in the Peace Corps., running around from food shows to chocolate conferences -- all in the service of helping growers on the ground in Madagascar. Where this leads... no one knows for sure.

NGOs & govt aid agencies could pull the plug any minute now.

An IPO seems a long way off... then again, Wall St. owns Washington & "the leader of the Free World" (bailouts = bonuses, suckerz) so it might rent the U.S. military in order to "securitize" whole islands, complete countries, entire nations (after all, they're only sovereign states), adding another category to the commodity markets, futures options, & hedge funds in their expanding portfolios.

If so, maybe Brett could be repaid with some beachfront property as part of the new "land reform" there.

Short of that, hey, Dagoba got acquired.

Whatever, a friend lost 45 pounds in 2 months, & is starting to look like a human being again, by eating this chocolate. Go figure.
Appearance   4.9 / 5
Color: stunning pink tan
Surface: smudged only because it’s...
Temper: ... so highly burnished it reacts to the slightest touch
Snap: hi-pitched for a 44% DM (butter alert: opaque edge)
Aroma   9.5 / 10
diabolic enchantment: litchi & ylang coil around a sublime Milk Chocolate caramel roll -> aerates to a softly-dipped pineapple in chocolate & a fleck of charcoal flint from pine wood
Mouthfeel   11.3 / 15
Texture: bit dry
Melt: slow / viscous
Flavor   44.8 / 50
reverse play of the Aroma: pines away first -> then captures sensational but brief litchi (almost resident zest) before proceeding to trad Milk Choc & baser caramel (salt perhaps?) -> white fruit syrup continues to enliven & elevate the progression -> butterscotches off to nearby Zanzibar cloves escorted by vetiver
Quality   16 / 20
Plodding in parts (the vanilla somewhat heavy-handed from this the island of Bourbon vanilla) so the flavors occasionally feel unsettled & fail to sit. But a good bar nonetheless that shows Madécasse making incremental strides over past blunders. Plenty of punch supplied by the cocoa, especially the high fruit tones for which Madagascar is renowned, & delivers them with the persistence of salt crystals to cut thru any dairy & vanilla screens.

ING: sugar, whole milk pwdr, cocoa mass, cacáo butter, lecithin, vanilla, salt(??)

Reviewed January 2011

  

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