Info Details
Country USA   
Type Dark   (74%)
Strain Blend   
Source (Domincan Republic; Venezuela; Madagascar)
Flavor Crossover   
Style Neo-Modern      
The Brooklyn Blend... boasting cocoa beans sourced in Venezuela, D.R., and Madagascar.

The Bros raise their mast sail high & cast a wider net beyond the single-origin fetish that rules the current chocolate scene. Brooklyn goes international like that because people born in those places -- as well as all over the world -- migrate in a tidal bore to live around the ‘hoods across the river from Manhattan.

A bar that plows up the term terroir, adding new dimension to it, making a ‘sense of place’ ever more... well, evasive... strangely foreign in an entirely down-home way.

It returns the Mast Bros to what they do best: expansion rather than limitations to their culinary skills in blending diverse ingredients together.
Appearance   3.6 / 5
Color: dark solid brown
Surface: inconsistency from an uneven pour
Temper: absorbent
Snap: good click-clack
Aroma   9.1 / 10
4 distinct quadrants: olive (D.R.) -> macadamia (Venzy) -> fermented mango (Mad) -> creeping vines (maybe Ecuador crept into the mix??) climb down to a sea grape -> aerates to buttered leather ‘n brooding vinyl but also tangerine, candied cranberry & ylang -> sums into a light Merlot
Mouthfeel   12.7 / 15
Texture: automagick
Melt: measured
Flavor   43.9 / 50
rolls in on a Caribbean front: fruit & spices (june & riberries x ambar / fennel) -> gets green (clary sage / sweet grass / tobacco) as a hedgehog worming its way thru a cocoa patch -> mangosteen, tamarind & frangipani -> dark mushroom (woods ear + black truffle) -> umami coats the Pal (palate) complexed in labdanum & vanillin -> next expresses grapes & grapefruit as Madagascar takes over the progression in a whirlwind, almost effacing the cocoa baseboards but those Caribbean tannins hold firm to withstand it, recalling mastic gum & mahlab -> schisandra -> sours away to a gin tonic
Quality   16.2 / 20
Very busy / very vibrant. Just about covers it all: highs (bright ringing esters), lows (Earthen upheavals in the undertow), & a sensational mid-section that harkens back to Mast’s own Mad Truff... this the bar that that should’ve been.

Though nearly a complete blend, it's far & away from the most compatible. The Madagascar component particularly sticks out so by the end it almost leaves the rest of this rich, super geo-natural phenomena behind. But, again, the centripetal forces hold enough to prevent this bar from flying off all over the place.

Mast Bros: expect the unexpected... in this antidote for boredom.

ING: cocoa mass, sugar

Reviewed April 2011


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