209
by Fresco
Impact
Jamaican cacáo may have originally come from Mesoamerica, an offshoot transplanted there by the European encounter with the Mexica / Aztecs.If some chocolate from this island twinkles with star fruits under the Milk Way ala champagne bubbles, this bar could be a toast to tzitzimitl -- the Aztec deity associated with stars, especially those seen around the sun during a solar eclipse.
Virtually a total blackout.
Appearance 4.9 / 5
| Color: | beautifully burnt sienna |
| Surface: | meticulously molded |
| Temper: | neutral / natural |
| Snap: | fragile (just one effect of low conching) |
Aroma 7.7 / 10
thru the drum roaster darkly: leather / pleather / vinyl & Jamaican creosote overrun a fleeting champagne grape along with litchi-like guineps -> exudes fresh rubber to trap some sparkling juniper & star anise
Mouthfeel 12.1 / 15
| Texture: | soft & smooth |
| Melt: | lightweight; semi-astringent |
Flavor 38.3 / 50
uploads peach -> rapidly downshifts to black raisin then blackstrap molasses -> star anise hugs a dark rail (carob & chicory more than chocolate, & above all volcanic lahar... basically hot cement) -> treacles out black maple sap until butter balms it for black mission fig -> crumbles & disintegrates over toasted breadfruit
Quality 13.8 / 20
Fresco warns that #209 carries an “in-your-face earthiness from the start”. Not quite but almost.
Minimal conching to highlight the roast, renders a strange exhibition on this origin. The temperature gauges so strong that any flavor flags in this customarily delicate bean are burned off halfway down their concourse.
A prime example of a barsmith branding his maker’s mark on it rather than the other way around.
This bears more than just shades of Blanxart’s Congo 82%; it hides in its long dark shadows. Both houses share a current penchant to burn ‘em down -- leaving soot & syrup in their wake.
ING: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter; CBS (Cocoa mass / Butter / Sugar) ~3:3:2
Reviewed June 2011
Minimal conching to highlight the roast, renders a strange exhibition on this origin. The temperature gauges so strong that any flavor flags in this customarily delicate bean are burned off halfway down their concourse.
A prime example of a barsmith branding his maker’s mark on it rather than the other way around.
This bears more than just shades of Blanxart’s Congo 82%; it hides in its long dark shadows. Both houses share a current penchant to burn ‘em down -- leaving soot & syrup in their wake.
ING: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter; CBS (Cocoa mass / Butter / Sugar) ~3:3:2
Reviewed June 2011