Info Details
Country USA   
Type Dark   (70%; Batch #10-013)
Strain Hybrid   
Source Jamaica   
Flavor Earthen   
Style Industrial      
Jamaican cacáo may have originally come from Mesoamerica, an offshoot transplanted there by the European encounter with the Mexica / Aztecs.

If some chocolate from this island twinkles with star fruits under the Milk Way ala champagne bubbles, this bar could be a toast to tzitzimitl -- the Aztec deity associated with stars, especially those seen around the sun during a solar eclipse.

Virtually a total blackout.
Appearance   4.9 / 5
Color: beautifully burnt sienna
Surface: meticulously molded
Temper: neutral / natural
Snap: fragile (just one effect of low conching)
Aroma   7.7 / 10
thru the drum roaster darkly: leather / pleather / vinyl & Jamaican creosote overrun a fleeting champagne grape along with litchi-like guineps -> exudes fresh rubber to trap some sparkling juniper & star anise
Mouthfeel   12.1 / 15
Texture: soft & smooth
Melt: lightweight; semi-astringent
Flavor   38.3 / 50
uploads peach -> rapidly downshifts to black raisin then blackstrap molasses -> star anise hugs a dark rail (carob & chicory more than chocolate, & above all volcanic lahar... basically hot cement) -> treacles out black maple sap until butter balms it for black mission fig -> crumbles & disintegrates over toasted breadfruit
Quality   13.8 / 20
Fresco warns that #209 carries an “in-your-face earthiness from the start”. Not quite but almost.

Minimal conching to highlight the roast, renders a strange exhibition on this origin. The temperature gauges so strong that any flavor flags in this customarily delicate bean are burned off halfway down their concourse.

A prime example of a barsmith branding his maker’s mark on it rather than the other way around.

This bears more than just shades of Blanxart’s Congo 82%; it hides in its long dark shadows. Both houses share a current penchant to burn ‘em down -- leaving soot & syrup in their wake.

ING: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter; CBS (Cocoa mass / Butter / Sugar) ~3:3:2

Reviewed June 2011


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