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Dominican 70% Guananico

by Fruition
Info Details
Country USA   
Type Dark   (70%)
Strain Blend   
Source Dominican Republic   (Puerto Plata; Guananico; Eden Estate)
Flavor Fruits & Flowers   
Style Classic      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Located in Upstate NY, Fruition releases this companion piece to its Dominican La Red.

A telling line in the play NY Idea is ‘you murdered my happiness’, followed by an admission that the couple's relationship is based on whim -- the thinnest caprice -- which is THE New York Idea.

People spend so long chasing happiness & then, having captured it, hold it near & dear... temporarily. It wriggles free from their clutches & empties as waste, leaving only a precious recollection of a momentary encounter to sustain it... until the next one.

Perhaps just as well for it’s all so fragile & delicate that the instant one grabs at its seams with eager fingers the dissipation ensues.

By the end, the characters get it right; namely, their silly heads find their inner-hearts.

This bar never experiences any such wayward tendencies. That's why it reps true-school chocolate from the moment it starts to melt.
Appearance   4.5 / 5
Color: poly-chrome... purple-rouge
Surface: clear def
Temper: lustrous
Snap: a little bend & cuff
Aroma   8 / 10
coffee robusto
grape nuts / cereal grains (especially caramelized toasted corn nuts -- never tried 'em for breakfast?)
big tobacco + thick green weed (dandelion)
Mouthfeel   13.4 / 15
Texture: soft custard
Melt: effortless
Flavor   46.6 / 50
über sweet (for the category) fruit bomb
pops open fruit atop chocolate (fresh acerola & tamarind)... rides out in tandem until sour punches thru & cranks white currants, or better yet jobo (Spondias mombin) backed by sweet mango -> slight bitter wooden underside (jobo's branches) -> tobacco haze -> brownies -> chocolate sweetsop (think cocoa cream)
Quality   18.1 / 20
Color gives it away: a lot going on.

Hi-def resolution & intensity of good range (high / lows; lateral spread across the spectrum) & stamina.

Cacáo selected from an estate formerly held by the Brugals of family rum-fame. They treated it as a hobby farm: 1,100 acres set in a vista-rich valley cut with sloping mountains along which Theobroma trees lean toward the ocean off in the distant horizon, intercropped with avocados, limes, macadamia nuts & mangos. Nice hobby.

The dual-track progression in this bar of fruit on one rail & a strip of baseline cocoa on the other points to separately customized roasting batches that Fruition then combines later in the conche. Nice touch.

A quality of what every chocolate should be. Lesser bars usually fill their wrappers with excuses. Bryan Graham of Fruition makes none.

Assiduously sourced & capably processed without all the super tech gear of some glam names in the biz; just kitchen equipment put to good use that gets the job done quite admirably.

Home-grinding close to the hearth.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter,

Reviewed August 16, 2013

  

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