Info Details
Country USA   
Type Dark   (70%)
Strain Hybrid   
Source Dominican Republic   (Hato Mayor del Rey; Hacienda de SPAGnVOLA)
Flavor Spices & Herbs   
Style Mainstream      
Sometimes conservative stands out as radical.

Take this bar for the D.R.

The Dominican Republic
ranks as the go-to glam spot for cacáo origins these days because of its generalized hi-quality &, no less, dynamic flavor range that rivals a club stocked with tall leggy models dressed to the fashion max vying for attention (transgenders usually win the contest). The kind that send out e-vites with a models-only door policy, AND their guests must be models too in order to be admitted.

SPAGnVOLA defies the bouncer by sliding in with this rather average pedestrian; buttoned-down & very straight. None of the peacock flowers & berries so in vogue among the chocofiends.

Consider it the good-looking number in a sea of overwhelming eye (& mouth) candy.
Appearance   3.7 / 5
Color: foreboding
Surface: lopsided pour
Temper: sealed varnish
Snap: quiet killer
Aroma   7.8 / 10
a virtual scan of its 80% sib, save for 10% extra sugar to conjure a raisin
aerates huge cocoa plume
Mouthfeel   12.7 / 15
Texture: thick for 70%
Melt: clear & clean evacuation (only the thinnest stringent film)
Flavor   42.9 / 50
roasted almonds + cocoa nuts -> sapote skin -> browns into tamarind, then flickering banana before spices... nutmeg, vanilla -- the latter strafing the taste-buds -> coffee-clove
Quality   15.3 / 20
Another center point chocolate with a supple spice quotient & a square-box structure.

SPAGnVOLA obviously appealing to market preferences with hi-vanilla cocoa, albeit at a fairly robust level (compliments of a stern roast). The official if erroneous CBS (Cocoa mass / Butter / Sugar ratio) of 8:15:17 (or ~1:2:2) betrays this bar's potency.

In both feel & flavor, it hits with heavier mass on the tongue than even SPAGnVOLA's 80%. (The company also issues a 75%; given the relative similarity between this 70% & the aforementioned 80%, it'd seem that 75% equates with just more of the same.).

Radical indeed.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter, vanilla

Reviewed August 20, 2013


Pin It on Pinterest