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Madagascar

by Holy Cacao
Info Details
Country Israel   
Type Dark   (70%)
Strain Hybrid   
Source Madagascar   (Sambirano Valley; Ambolikapiky Estate)
Flavor Crossover   
Style Classic      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Holy Cacao from Israel divining in on cocoa sourced out of Madagascar where places like Ambohimanga – the Jerusalem of the island -- comprise one of the 12 sacred hills in the country.

Perhaps one for each of the lost tribes.

The Almighty, after all, has purposes of its own.

Appearance   4.2 / 5
Color: Madagascar's tell-tale orange-umber
Surface: voids & divots in a thick, hefty pur
Temper: polished
Snap: big build
Aroma   7.8 / 10
heavy, & for a Madagascar, inhabiting the lower realms -- hazelnuts, cedar, vetiver
aerates an imposing chocolate head
Mouthfeel   13.1 / 15
Texture: slick
Melt: metronomic
Flavor   46.6 / 50
superb start on chocolate-vetiver -> cedar sprouts into slight acid (baobab fruit tree: click image upper right & think pear x grapefruit), followed by sweet strawberry, then the 2 fruits together (excellent) -> honeysuckle rosewood -> hazelnut (to be expected, still to be enchanted) -> slow, gradual dissolve on orange blossom in a white chocolate mousse (sensational) as the added cocoa butter influences the outcome -> exits Nutella® (the hangover of the earlier chocolate & hazelnuts)
Quality   18.4 / 20
Terrifically balanced.

Madagascan chocolates tend to cleave between the brassy high bars and the more baser bearing ones with a few that split the differences. This squarely fits the middle crossover category but to a much greater degree that encompasses the full spectrum of the island's cacáo traits & at such strong magnitude & definition for a midrange profile. For example, one of the most orange-inflected chocolates from here…. or anywhere for that matter.

Bars like this shall solidify the reputation of Holy Cacao's Jo Zander as the King David of barsmiths out to slay the chocolate Goliaths.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter, lecithin

Reviewed June 25, 2014

  

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