Brown Butter Milk Chocolate

by Fruition
Info Details
Country USA   
Type Flavored   (Milk Chocolate 43% cacáo-content; Batch No. 1)
Strain Hybrid   
Source Dominican Republic   
Flavor Crossover   
Style New School      
More & more Brown Butter appears to replace the once-vogue now-rote Fleur de Sel as the "new" breakthrough "innovation" in Flavorings for chocolate. Timely.

A recent study out of Tulane University tracking 150 individuals over the course of 1 year finds that fat -- whether from coconut or olive oil, MCTs or dairy cream -- significantly decreases C-reactive protein levels & triglycerides + reduces the ratio of total cholesterol to "good cholesterol," called high-density lipoprotein cholesterol. Taken together the data indicates that high fat diets lower the risk of heart disease.

So here's the real killer: fat, even saturated fat, improves health (the only exception being hydrogenated fats).

Butter, maligned for decades as a "bad fat", is on a comeback.

Guess that makes it -- along with notable exotica like açai, spirulina, quinoa, & raw cacáo -- a "superfood".

So doctor's orders: 'fattens up y'all'.
Appearance   4.7 / 5
Color: orange-creamsicle
Surface: Fruiton's usual fashion plate, ever enhanced by a flaw (some lone bubbling that serves as a beauty mold)
Temper: reserved swagger
Snap: hi-heels cutting up the dance floor
Aroma   8.1 / 10
very dairy: milk -> cream -> butter on a strict continuum
roasted flint beneath
Mouthfeel   10.3 / 15
Texture: yielding, to betray its Snap (above)
Melt: strange chocodynamics… hydro wax / wet lumps
Flavor   42.9 / 50
crushing caramel -> red grape -> cotton candy -> grows waxen… -> melted FD&C flavored food coloring sno-cone -> turns richer as the Textural woes dissolve into brown butter / brown sugar & the spiced hard-top of crème caramel flan (superb) -> drains away chocolate milk
Quality   15 / 20
Bizarre tactiles & a mid-palate that blanks out bland but, this being Fruition, rights itself for a bounty worth the wait. A decent if wobbly first batch attempt. Underdeveloped by Fruition's standard. Expect more & better as it gets a grip on working the browned butter recipes.

That aside, the price of bread led to the Reign of Terror in France & that of rice triggered the Arab Spring so long live the brown butter revolution.

INGREDIENTS: sugar, cocoa butter, cocoa mass, nonfat milk powder, cow's butter, whole vanilla

Reviewed January 22, 2014


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