Various Bars

by Doble & Bignall
Info Details
Country UK   
Type (72%s; Dark-Milks)
Strain (a variety)
Source (Panama; Venezuela)
Flavor Crossover   
Style Neo-Modern      
Compromised by a middling Panamanian cacáo, D&B (Doble & BIgnall) compensates by drafting some Venezuelan ones. A mixed bag for sure but more than gratifying enough to put this barsmith on the 'must-watch' list.

The following details a Chocolate Bar Blast – in this case 4 chocolate reviews in 1. the C-spot®still maintains its actual sampling policy of only ‘1-a-Day’ in order to obtain an accurate & thorough gauge on a chocolate; as well as to avoid inevitable palate fatigue which occurs with multi-samples in a compressed time session (no matter what so-called miracle palate cleanser may be invoked). For the sake of publishing efficiency, they’re consolidated into this single review. The overall rating & metrics (upper right) reflect a composite average of each bar's individual measures.
Appearance   3.5 / 5
Color: soft rouges on brown
Surface: micro-dot pinholes; scuffs
Temper: uneven shimmering sheen
Snap: generally in the bass range (sharp to meek)
Aroma   7 / 10
pig anus hanging upside down in a salami shop -- eructs tar 'n leather… the drift of some S. Pacific island landfill

Tawny Owl
vanilla protein-shake

Puerto Cabello
a real barnyard
leather & horsetail & tobac inside, a charcoal pit roasting cocoa-nuts + macs outside

Puerto Cabello Milk
Mouthfeel   11.6 / 15
Texture: rubbery
Melt: thin & quick
Flavor   42.8 / 50
chocolate-bacon basted in spice / môlé -> dark fruit hovers around the liminal limits -> sweet cocoa… respectable after-linger as the fruit hangs around

Tawny Owl
wayward beginning trying to secure its footing then grips onto the Aromatics, viz., whey protein -> flubs around, feebly, trying to assert a caramel… instead hits on dark toffee chalk (caustic remains of the whey & the Raven from above) -> falls out on nice pastry flake

Puerto Cabello 72%
a nutty chocolate (macs / almonds / cashews) -> spice points (myrrh / tonka/ slippery elm… the last contributing to a marshmallow-cherry which leads into… ) -> orange blossom honey -> coffee -> chicory

Puerto Cabello Milk
goes deep right away with nut-toffee -> milk gradually overtakes the progression rolling from a Milk Dud® to a vanilla milk shake
Quality   17.4 / 20
D&B performs a rather heroic rescue on a salvage mission with this 72% cacáo-content from Panama… never a great origin & this proves so with fermentation issues, yet the progression stages a nice recovery from a fraught start. For people who relish deli-cuts of chocolate, this fills the gorge

Tawny Owl (Batch 90)
just a scrawny 50% Panamanian night bird bulked up with milk sugars & protein. Like its Dark brethren, Raven, this too however makes a formidable comeback at the very tail whence it gains a modicum of flight. Prior to then it sits all bug-eyed wondering where the hell it might head next. NIce escape.

Puerto Cabello (Batch 104)
From Mantuano, Venezuela. Very true to the varietal & origin. Full-spectrum flavor, perhaps the greatest pull of any Puerto Cabello to date. Incredibly rich, lush & broad-shouldered in range & depth. A world-beater deserving its own separate review & award.

Puerto Cabello Milk
Powderful Texture initially interferes with what eventuates a solid Milk Choc. A little heavy on the dairy but the nut-inflection matches well enough to overcome any shortfall & leaves an impressive lasting impression.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter, (for Tawny Owl & Puerto Cabello Milk, add milk powder)

Reviewed January 23, 2015


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