Peru Brutus
Madagascar (Dark & Milk)

by Frederic Blondeel
Info Details
Country Belgium   
Type Dark   (+ Milk Chocolate)
Source Peru   (+ Madagascar)
Flavor Sugar   (x Fruits/Flowers)
Style Classic      
The clunky-sounding alliterative 'Bean-to-Bar' (which equates cacáo seeds with pinto beans -- both botanically incorrect & economically cheap) finds a stricter replacement by Blondeel in 'Tree-to-Tablet' (tablet the French word for 'bar'; click image at right to enlarge).

Someone please tell Frederic Blondeel that tablets in English nowadays most commonly refer to devices like the iPad®. Very hard to eat those things… just as hard as eating words in chocolate reviews.

A shame really because these tablets taste more than edible. They're some freak devourables.
Appearance   3.2 / 5
Color: alluring if dull
Surface: grainy; pinholes galore
Temper: blurry
Snap: cowering
Aroma   8.7 / 10
Peru Brutus
unusually light & airy for a Peruvian until breathing some … which grounds it

vanilla-malt, tar, & citrus

Madagascar Chocolat au Lait
vetiver & ylang soaking up super cream
Mouthfeel   12 / 15
Texture: sandy (Peru Brutus) to smooth (Madagascar)
Melt: uneven / choppy
Flavor   44.9 / 50
Peru Brutus
sugar front (coarse grind / integration) -> bready -> white-sweet (more sugar) -> finally develops some tags (yams & herbs)

beautiful floral chocolate (orchids galore, mainly vanilla [though none added]) -> those signature Madagascan berries riot within -> orange crush (wondrous) -> sweeter… sweeter… sweetest as sugar melts thru & thru on the way down slicked by hazelnut oil -> trace rose-soap bubble

Madagascar Chocolat au Lait
ylang struts out with vanilla -> pineapple toffee (damn rare) -> sadly, increasingly waxy, harboring a citric metallic streak (damn rare Part II) -> bars hangs together enough for 'lemon-MIlk Choc-cinnamon' & that self-same soap bubble in the Dark Madagascar (above) except smothered if not muted here -> gianduia
Quality   16.7 / 20
Peru Brutus
75% cacáo-content
A blank brute. Peru never so pusillanimous. Only at the end a veritable taste of origin emerges, yet that too proves weak.
INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter, lecithin

65% cacáo-content
Instant & infinite satisfaction + consistent in between.
Neither a big nor bold bar, just a superb Madagascar. After surveying hundreds of these from various chocolate makers, this ranks among the very tops of the island origin or any origin for that matter.
Blondeel really calibrates & then fine-tunes for extra measure. Other than a slight soapy point, flawless.
INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter, lecithin

Madagascar Chocolat au Lait
49% cacáo-content
Bizarre 50-50 bar. The first half stupendous; the second fraught with issues (starting with Texture breakdown impacting Flavor). All ends well however… really well, especially that Milk Choc gianduia.
INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter, whole milk powder, lecithin, vanilla

Reviewed June 22, 2015


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