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Info Details
Country France   
Type Milk Chocolate   (48% cacáo-content; Lot 150115)
Strain Esmeraldas   
Source Ecuador   (Esmeraldas)
Flavor Spices & Herbs   
Style Classic      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Il est grand temps de rallumer les étoiles -- Guillaume Appolinaire

(English translation: Time to turn the stars on again)
Appearance   4.6 / 5
Color: sienna goddess
Surface: unblemished
Temper: sidereal
Snap: breathless
Aroma   8.8 / 10
singular (or what most mistake as subdued) malabar chestnut prior to dairy asserting itself
Mouthfeel   12.1 / 15
Texture: granular wax (a bit bizarre)
Melt: bumps the whole night… & morning after too
Flavor   46.3 / 50
malt shake -> malt cereal grains -> malt balls... get the theme?… -> oh-so-soft spices pipe in over graham crackers (rhapsodic) -> thick quadruple-clotted butter cream -> blonde mulberry -> cocoa creme -> cadences on frangipani (exquisite)
Quality   18.2 / 20
What a development. Quite pedestrian in the first half (flavor-wise, tactile, & otherwise). No sprinter, nor that nimble, but once it gets going -- as those spices roll in when this bar needs it most to keep churning & turning in favor of the palate -- it never stops. Every bit the offspring of Morin's 70% princess of a Dark Esmerslda.

The varietal, as always, just coos & caresses its way thru the heart & mind…. the gastro-pings dappling as if precisely pinpointed on the taste buds. 48% cacáo-content should qualify as Dark-Milk except Esmeraldas' serene nature too benign & kind for the darkness.

Morin's refining leaves the Texture a little granulated (one of the few Morin bars lacking his customary lecithin) though, again, by the 2nd half, it too corrects on the melt thru.

An all-star beauty in yet another eloquent achievement from the (Milk) Chocolate Master -- Franck Morin.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter, whole milk

Reviewed November 3, 2015

  

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