Côte d'Ivoire 73

by Richart
Info Details
Country France   
Type Semi-Dark   (73%)
Strain Amelonado   (Amazon)
Source Ivory Coast   
Flavor Naked   
Style Classic      
A barking violet of a slick buttered she-wolf, ala “sisters” Amala & Kamala, the feral-children nurtured & raised by a family of wolves in a cave near Midnapor, India before being discovered by Fr. Joseph Singh who chronicled their life stories, publishing the diary in 1966, which describes a den “whose nature was so ferocious & affection so sublime.” Proof-positive dolphins & dogs are man’s best friends... next to chocolate like this.
Appearance   4.9 / 5
Color: mahogany struck w/ purple (huh???)
Surface: clean slate
Temper: quiet triboluminescence
Snap: sharp, right at the edge of brittle (& bloom)
Aroma   8.8 / 10
feral twins cocoa & coconut lost in a forest of wet wood; aerates to the shock of all chocolate – candied African violet & lilac! (no kidding, in Ivory Coast... when did lilacs last in the backyard bloom there? Never [apologies to Walt Whitman])
Mouthfeel   12.3 / 15
Texture: viscous
Melt: some stiff butter
Flavor   45.4 / 50
chocolate bang right off -> stunning background flowers originally picked up in the aroma... sprinkled w/ black pepper tracer atop mounds of classic earth chocolate -> tree bark howling in the distance under faint star anise
Quality   17.6 / 20
Ivory Coast, where did you get that purple (color, scent, & flavor)? Imported, naturally, at some level. Perhaps from Cameroon whose beans often find their way into jute sacks packed in nearby Ivory Coast & Ghana. By the 20th century Cameroon boasted the most diverse collection of cacáo varieties in all of Africa, including transplants from Ecuador, Venezuela, & Colombia which may explain & account for the floral panache here.

In the end, this is still a West African Amelonado conveying a predominantly one-dimensional profile though deceptively complexed within intriguing anthocyanins creeping into the mix (&/or crop since cacáo, like all life, continues to change constantly). What was once a distressed & disrespected origin now has some purple power in the beans’ genes besides just unleashing the beast of old. With Ecuador’s fabled & florid Nacional in decline, maybe humble Ivory Coast, yes, Ivory Coast will become cacáo’s chemical florist... here covered in butter – the French fetish; 73% fools of a higher percentage than actuality – giving this bar a sleek elegance & cerebral demeanor in a kind of forced housetraining when it really wants to run more wild on all fours.

ING: cacáo, sugar, lecithin


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