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Milk Choc w/ Nibs

by ki’Xocolatl
Info Details
Country Mexico   
Type Milk Chocolate   (36%; w/ Nibs)
Strain Criollo   
Source Mexico   (Conkal, Yucatán)
Flavor Earthen   
Style Old School      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
An undervalued money bar show more »
Appearance   2.9 / 5
rude slab
Color: wan; most unusual jaundiced brown
Surface: pocked w/ Nibs & probable vanilla flecks
Temper: viscous grease vat
Snap: sickly; ragged, broken edge (poor conching or Central American humidity?)
Aroma   6.8 / 10
casein & cocoa-centric: vanilla cheese glued to thick paste -> dry wall gout -> stiff milk powder; abysmal & rank
Mouthfeel   11.3 / 15
Texture: crumble, crunch & then onto microfine
Melt: disintegretion (mid-length conche at best + probable late-staging of vanilla & sugar prevents particles from becoming fully coated & micronized, relying instead on masticulation to complete the integration of elements)
Flavor   47.4 / 50
spent blanks -> bland -> small copper -> vanilla milk -> Nibs crunch thru to chocolate & it's ‘bar on’ -> Maya breadnut -> salt-like umami -> sugar caramelizes breadnut into chestnut then delicate toffee -> teasing Milk Choc eurhythmix... soft, supple, & subtle... flows like this for days into dairy fat / cacáo butter confluence for crème brulée w/ mite coffee -> caoba wood puts the kibosh on salt-toffee -> extremely subliminal post-length of herbal shimmers (lavender, achiote, pepper, even limestone)
Quality   18.5 / 20
Vacationers along the Cancún – Tulum corridor, or stepping off the cruise ships in Cozumel, know the milk in Mexico ain’t Swiss mountain-fed.

How Mathieu Brees & Stephanie Verbrugge of ki’Xocolatl generate this flavor-pack from those kill-joy aromatics & that false-start places them among the chief alchemists in all of chocodom. They end up nailing this one; as if working off a different template compared to other bar-smiths.

The imaginary salt-hits bear shades of SHS’ MC (or a sleight-of-hand salt-shaker is actually in there & the Nibs are sodium crystals?). Golden nut tones, & butter seemingly infused lightly with lavender or something, further fixes & carries those neural suggestions all the way thru & including the dazzling aftermath of a mind-sweeper... the effects multiple & manifold, wending in so many subtle directions & twisted variations on cocoa, caramel, toffee, & topped by the skin of a crème brulée.

Once more this ‘light-break’ Mexican Criollo proves it can take it (also demonstrated in the Dark Spice bar). 36% marks a mid-point of sorts between regular Milk Chocolate & Dark-Milks, a good percentage since any count lower might feel too evanescent, overstaying that empty beginning well into a hollowed mid-palate.

While the ancillaries (Appearance, Texture) are 2nd rate at best, the flavor orchestration from the genetics, to the terra, & the processing (especially the prime meridian roast for this formulation) are of the 1st magnitude.

ING: cocoa mass, sugar, cacáo butter, whole milk powder, vanilla, soy lecithin, cacáo nibs

Reviewed Autumn 2009

  

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