Adsense

Info Details
Country Austria   
Type Dark-Milk   (60%)
Strain Hybrid   (Abajo)
Source Ecuador   (El Oro)
Flavor Earthen   
Style New School      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Dear Herr Zotter,

Thank you for using common sense & demonstrating good judgment in refusing to release yet another standard bar to join the onslaught coming from Ecuador. By delivering this in an inventive Dark-Milk format, you spare legions of chocomanes the world over a misadventure of ‘ecua-bored’ proportions.

This El Oro is worthy instead of ‘Ecuadoring’ in the tradition of transforming golden earrings into a golden calf, then smelting it to scatter among the faithful.

God bless you, Josef Zotter, a true Samiri.
Appearance   4.9 / 5
Color: dark for even a 60% DM
Surface: perfect plate
Temper: glistens softly
Snap: shear strength; straight edge on the break
Aroma   8.4 / 10
slow roll caramel rubbing on milked cocoa butter -> generates salted toffee
Mouthfeel   13.3 / 15
Texture: super round
Melt: plodding
Flavor   40.6 / 50
swollen milk-lip rubbed in salt -> cocoa slowly / gradually mounts for that salted toffee in the Aroma -> goes littoral almost literally (oceanic / volcanic / grey sand beach) -> mineralizes thick mocha w/ floral (lavender-like) breeze -> lands on a gold strand of banana peel
Quality   17 / 20
Domori already proved the worth of Tyrolean dairy. This re-confirms it: strong cows ambling the mountainside there weigh heavily on the flavor. Salt more than vanilla blows it up even more, tipping the scales, the balance a little off as +/-20% sugar & 60% cocoa totter at its mercy.

Tough therefore to get a good look - despite a mild roast / short conche - onto the cacáo Abajo sourced from the UROCAL co-op in El Oro, Ecuador -- an old organization that keeps reinventing itself. Its strength was "Fair-Trade" / organic bananas (aren't they all in Ecuador?) but prices declined so cacao became the alternative.

The 4-day ferment indicates a hybrid of perhaps decent Nacional germplasm. For a more revealing glimpse, check República del Cacao’s unmilked 67% from the same micro-region.

A forceful (such as it is) MC, lots of staying power, whose elements come into play nicely, connected with Zotters 5-fold roller.

ING: cocoa mass, raw cane sugar, full cream milk pwdr, (17%), cacáo butter, vanilla, salt

Reviewed Autumn 2010

  

Pin It on Pinterest