by Holy Cacao
Info Details
Country Israel   
Type Flavored   (Hazelnuts)
Strain Blend   
Source Dominican Republic   (Conacado Cooperative)
Flavor Crossover   (Earthen x Fruits/Flowers)
Style Neo-Modern      

The Book of Duja... Gianduja that is.

Anyone who thinks the C-spot® is mental ought to check out Scott of's 35-part series on gianduia. It takes 'in-depth' to the deepest level.

As he himself rationalizes: monomania hasn't been considered a legitimate mental health diagnosis in over a century.

Or, for more direct insight, just digest this 2-piece collection of 1 Dark Chocolate Gianduja (56% cacáo-content) & 1 Milk Chocolate Gianduja (36% cacáo-content).

Better yet, multi-taskers: read the series & eat these at the same time. Appreciation... multiplied.

NOTE: the following review covers both bars, sequenced from Dark to Milk, the preferred order of professional session chocolate (funny how few "pros" realize this), sampling bitter / darker pieces first, before moving down into sweeter levels because the undue influence of sugar can de-sensitize the papillae of taste receptors. For general audience chocolate flights, the opposite applies -- going from sweet to bitter -- in order to meet public expectations, avoid palate shock, & expand thresholds thru acclimatization. The overall rating & metrics (upper right) reflect their composite average.
Appearance   3.6 / 5
Color: DARK BAR -- filbert brown (the skin of);
MILK BAR -- pink filbert
Surface: DARK BAR -- molten;
MILK BAR -- cratered & pocked
Temper: DARK BAR -- obsidian shine;
MILK BAR -- a mess (plastic wrapper transfer)
Snap: DARK BAR -- whop-bop;
MILK BAR -- splunges into a porous edge-wall
Aroma   8.8 / 10
DARK BAR -- yes, hazelnut, but decidedly balanced by cocoa..., preciously, even perfectly so
blooms a sweep-spot of hibiscus marshmallow (lovely)
intriguing for 56% cacáo-content

MILK BAR-- cream-duja; another evenly proportioned scent
Mouthfeel   12 / 15
Texture: DARK BAR -- thick paste ala some 100s
MILK BAR --powder keg
Melt: DARK BAR -- time warp;
MILK BAR -- nicely auto-corrects
Flavor   44.6 / 50
DARK -- straight on hazelnuts-over-chocolate with a significant sugar back push -> tropical fruit punch from behind

MILK -- traditional almost-Belgian smooth praline style; very 2-dimensional.... only at the very tail a fruit node, gleaned in the Dark 56% version, peeks thru the heavier components whence the best of all worlds occurs -- nut, dairy & fruit -- for a truly superb finish
Quality   15.7 / 20
DARK -- Quite a revelation. Strong integration highlighted by a Texture with virtually no grain to it (rare for so much sugar).

MILK -- hazelnut ganache in a bar.

A generally well-executed & paired exposé on Gianduia -- a Dark & a Milk -- calibrated carefully for the consumer market. Together they wrap the tongue up good into knots of flavor.

Their differences are somewhat narrower than their percentages give off (the formulations belie a 20% differential in cacáo-content when accounting for total sugars [sucrose & lactose], nut paste, & cocoa butter). And while perhaps less unctuous & rich in oils, as well as ultra-freshness of Italian gianduias, Holy Cacáo delivers a friendly & accessible package utilizing a cacao that cuts thru without competing against the sum flavor but compliments it instead.

Reviewed December 10, 2013


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