Adsense

Ecuador 85%

by Pump Street
Info Details
Country UK   
Type Dark   (85%)
Strain EET   
Source Ecuador   (Los Rios; Cotopaxi; Moraspungo; Hacienda Limón)
Flavor Earthen   (with Naked + Spices/Herbs)
Style Neo-Modern      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
The Journalist (“J”) showed up more in club than business attire.

What was scheduled in the late afternoon as an appointment for a proposed article on heirloom cacáos acquired the trappings of an interview-cum-first-date in a candlelit cave that passes for so many urban lounges these days.

K.

In the age of digital, J brandishes one of those throw-back wire-bound note pads, mock beat reporter style, when newsstands actually sold papers & magazines before Drudge.

After very brief small talk, the sampling began.

Unimpressed with the initial bite, a predecessor to this bar, crafted with designated heirloom cacáo from Samuel von Rutte’s Hacienda Límon & configured to a semi-sweet 66%, J snorts, “Huh, kinda like some orgasms, you can take it or leave it.”

Well, the C-spot® prides itself for daring, salacious riffs off chocolate but this was so quick, to-the-point &, frankly, welcome for an opening shot.

What an entrance / intro. Bravo.

Session on.

Naturally J deserved a retort. “Ahhh, some orgasms may be better or more memorable than others but they’re all good, no?” Hell, with numerous research studies indicating a high percentage of people who self-report a terrible inabilty to climax at all, any orgasm might do.

J sits unmoved.

The very next comment out of J’s mouth is… show more »
Appearance   4 / 5
Color: raven brown verging on black
Surface: plaque scored into 4x4 tiles
Temper: twilit
Snap: sharp & short
Aroma   8.7 / 10
hops micro-brewed with Cinnamon Red Hots® at ridiculous levels
stone & legumes (typical Ecuador)
very dilute rosewater (intriguing)
Mouthfeel   11.9 / 15
Texture: hallmark Ecuadorian wax
Melt: a bit choked
Flavor   43.2 / 50
plain, dark, tannic cocoa… cheese stick pokes in & around it (mostly breaded with curdled cream element) -> brownie char -> lightly caustic / bitter -> gentian herb -> green walnut -> wants to caramelize, then stalls… back to bittering -> faint eucalyptus -> herbal Oreo® sandwich
Quality   15.4 / 20
Rather unremarkable, until taking into account the percentage.

What teases of DeBondt's stellar 90% in the Aroma turns into regular fare on the tongue.

A curious configuration for a seed mix that benefits from a (un)healthy dose of sugar. To compensate, Pump St. injects add'l cocoa butter -- the emollient on some wild bitters -- & a good choice at that.

Altogether this bar lacks sufficient diversity, even as tiny surprises keep popping up.

Quite unique from Mill Creek's rendition of the same cacáo type, but vanilla-free here & 15% less sugar. The twin facets these bars share are the brownie char & cookie aspect (the later common also to the Heirloom III entry). Otherwise, they're worlds apart.

Overall clean in its exposition; no astringency whatsoever for instance (a rarity for Arriba-ish cacáos) to suggest a conching that lifts the volatiles while retaining the heavier molecular weight polyphenols responsible for those embittered points.

As far as the 85% class goes, Pump Street hurdles a few bumps & a catches a couple others on the way to a respectable release.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter

Reviewed August 20, 2014

  

Pin It on Pinterest