Info Details
Country USA   
Type Semi-Dark   (70% w/ Nibs; Lot #100168)
Strain Hybrid   (some Criollo germplasm)
Source Madagascar   (Sambirano Valley)
Flavor Twang   
Style New School      
Those skinny runway models dressed up in Patric’s other lovely bars go to pieces here, broken down into NIbs & head into recovery... to come out a composite of a male model with his sensitive inner-girl completely intact.

Basically Brüno coked up on oxy-contin (isn’t he always?) strutting his high-wire act.
Appearance   5 / 5
Color: light titian
Surface: immaculate face; all hell breaks out on the back studded, pocked, piled w/ NIbs
Temper: shimmering matte
Snap: maracas shakin’ the eardrums
Aroma   7.8 / 10
NIbs carry it, cut by quartz crystal then lightly sprayed in pineapple mist -> underlying malted-starch from a cycad bush, almost fustian (a wool 'n cotton blend) -> pinenuts & wood over cocoa-paste
Mouthfeel   12.4 / 15
Texture: wild dichotony of dry-liquid...
Melt: ... driftwood floating downstream
Flavor   39.9 / 50
flash flood of vertiginous white fruit juice (champagne grapes, pineapple, litchi, & starfruit cocktail), lightning in the mouth -> reddens as Nibs wriggle about... a berry-bash really, hued w/ cranberry, juniper, schisandra, raspberry -> drying effect of Nibs takes hold, caustic but still bright poly-ester intensity... acids streaming... actually amplified by broken bits & pieces of cacáo rather than tempered -> finally some nuts (pignolia & filbert) undercuts acidity to balance -> pivot towards rare Madagascar mushroom -> dirties up clay & volcanic soil -> BANG, fruited-chocolate bang -> clears away pink-grapefruit tonic
Quality   15.1 / 20
Patric has done virtually every variation on the Mad theme (100% baking choc; Nibs by themselves; 75%; 70%, 67%... everything but a Dark-Milk which may be next). No bar-smith explores the island’s cacáo with as much range & depth.

Familiarity aside, way too top heavy (probable short roast) despite Nibs which lend some counterweight & much of that tactile body but contribute insufficiently to balance the flavor profile that it harkens back to Patric’s 67% rather than a 70.

Recent crops from the Sambirano Valley -- especially Bertil Åkesson's -- have been blistering tongues off with their hi-fruit acids / some real live fighting esters.

In yet another demonstration of intimate experience with the island, Patric’s handicraft capitalizes on a rich ferment & delivers sparkling clarity of Murano-glass quality (no one polishes them more clearly). One that the Snapple™ generation will want to gulp down.

ING: cacáo, sugar

Reviewed Autumn 2009


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