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Mleczna

by Chris & Tom / Manufactura Czekolady
Info Details
Country Poland   
Type Milk Chocolate   (44%)
Strain CCN-51   
Source Ecuador   
Flavor Earthen   
Style Mainstream      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Gold, souls & cocoa... 3 major lures for Europeans subsequent to Columbus' arrival in the New World.

The precious metal was often smelt down from priceless art objects while the middle "commodity" -- the founding peoples of the Amercas -- were "converted" to be fruitful & multiply, by way of the Cross... or else.

As for the third, cacáo was generically propagated for serviceable product like this.

Despite modern marketing claims & some mythical Swiss traveler named Carl August Goldsselman (who supposedly hailed Arriba Nacional as the finest), cacáo from Ecuador rarely attracted much attention, its flavor considered secondary at best & inferior in the least, until the great groves of Mesoamerican Criollo were wiped out due to exhaustion from being over-harvested. Only then did Nacional gain esteem & only as an alternative.

By 1916 it too experienced trouble, plagued by disease. Eventually, challenger clones like CCN-51 replaced it. Flavor, say the really old-timers, has been in further decline ever since.

Chris & Tom putting a bad seed to good use with lots of sugar, butter and milk.
Appearance   4.5 / 5
Color: sandy blonde
Surface: smudged pillows of a mold (3x6 tablet)
Temper: a mirror
Snap: exceptional for a Milk Choc
Aroma   8.8 / 10
clean & clearly defined: White Chocolate vanilla mousse / butter cream frosting
Mouthfeel   10.6 / 15
Texture: disjointed
Melt: sclerotic
Flavor   41.3 / 50
curls in caramel -> Tootsie Roll™ -> cement & talc mixed with glucose & glutamate -> honey-butter -> bread crumb
Quality   15.7 / 20
Light tone for a 44%, quite expected with sugar & cocoa butter the lead ingredients, a character that vaults it into Domori's Javagrey territory.

And just as well.

As forecast in Chris & Tom's 70% Ekwador, this a damaged bean best buried under mounds of both of those fillers (sugar & butter), & the barsmiths have done so admirably here.

Still, some core-chocolate manages to punch thru to make itself felt beyond its comparatively meager weight in cocoa mass, which curbs the overall perception of sweetness toward a savored bent.

ING: sugar, cocoa butter, cocoa mass, milk powder, vanilla bean

Reviewed October 21, 2011

  

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