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Blanco Piura Nibs

by Shattell
Info Details
Country Peru   
Type Nibs   
Strain Nacional   (family)
Source Peru   (Piura)
Flavor Spices & Herbs   (x Earthen)
Style Old School      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Chocolate crafted from Piura cacáo in Peru garners a lot of attention in this premium niche. A mini-rage kicked off by Zotter & Bonnat, neither of which foretold much of what was in store that would give Piura its reputation for hi-grade chocolate eventually heralded by Original Beans. Many followed in their wake: from award-winning Amedei to Patric's 67% version, the latter arguably the best to date & debatably the bar of 2013 from anyone, anywhere.

Here are some Nibs underlying some Piura (because as Morin proved, Piura comes in vastly different flavor profiles -- AO & CS -- to belie the close proximity of it all.)

Regardless, the first such in a world premiere.
Appearance   4.4 / 5
Color: strangely darker than Shattell's Tingo Maria
Surface: another clean winnowing
Temper: matte throughout
Snap: n/a
Aroma   7.9 / 10
a cereal grain silo (lightly malted rice, corn, wheat, amaranth) + puff the vapor dragon (alcohol)
Mouthfeel   12 / 15
Texture: dry as Piura itself (a relatively arid zone requiring irrigation) without turning into parchment
Melt: mealy mash; laborious
Flavor   45.7 / 50
pale cocoa draft -> those grains from above (add potatoes) rain in with umami elements (salted-vinegar chips) & hold that rail... passing over a slight green vegetal apparition (lemon verbena) -> naranjilla -> minor magnesium rise -> gradually sets on some dusky oak without ever really ending -> pale ale in the after-glow
Quality   17.8 / 20
Darnedest things; savory control of a crispy potato chip faction unlike any heretofore except Adi's "taro-chip" cocoa. And that little swig of beer at the tail is the final tap to create a gastropub of, pardon the infraction, yum.

Virtually zero bitterness nor much mineral concentration.

Exceedingly considerate for a Nib that presages good chocolate.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa nibs

Reviewed November 19, 2013

  

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