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Wasatch

by Solstice
Info Details
Country USA   
Type Dark   (70%)
Strain Blend   
Source (Ecuador; Dominican Republic; Costa Rica)
Flavor Crossover   
Style retro-American      (modified)
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Scott Querry of Solstice Chocolate excavates low to blast high. All in keeping with this bar's namesake: Wasatch -- a mountain front extending from Ogden to Provo -- which in the Ute language supposedly means "low pass over high range".
Appearance   4.3 / 5
Color: dark orangutan
Surface: generally clean despite flakes, release mark & stray divots
Temper: opaque
Snap: kindling bark
Aroma   7.8 / 10
a small raisin squashed by a setting cinder block of still-wet cement
musty myrrh & marshmallow root, slippery elm too
evolves to cocoa wax & turns blue in the face with anthocyanin-laden berries
Mouthfeel   12.2 / 15
Texture: cobblestones
Melt: stepwise
Flavor   44.8 / 50
base chocolate -> Arriba blackberry mutated into a Chuao-worthy blueberry crossing over to Conacado strawberry red, WHEW, but remains choc above all! -> blanched almonds on breadfruit spread -> slight spice (myrrh & cinnamon) -> clear wax -> rock quarry of the Aroma & Texture -> doubles down on fruit
Quality   17 / 20
Scott Querry at Solstice confides that he blends up 3 cacáo types here for which he has very little fondness: C.R., D.R., & E.R. (the latter for Ecuador which currently undergoes emergency room procedures in its CCN-riddled cacáo groves).

From this motley slew he derives old analogue flavors. None of the hi-def or brilliance seen in some bars. Semi-rough hewn on account of a medium-rare touch by Solstice.

Whatever the level of his personal disdain, this generalized humble stock overachieves (even glam-destination The Dominican Republic whose cocoa in this hails from the rather spotty Conacado co-op, & forget Costa Rica which rarely if ever contributes to satisfying chocolate). The individual origins however adhere exceedingly well for a cohesive whole. Quite the joint venture…. a nice interior alignment that points to compatibility trumping pedigree.

Who says barsmiths can't make good chocolate out of bad beans? Solstice defies the 7th Law of Chocodynamics.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter

Reviewed January 30 , 2014

  

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