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Info Details
Country USA   
Type Dark   (66%)
Strain Hybrid   
Source Hawai'i USA   (O'ahu; Maunawili)
Flavor Twang   (astringency)
Style Rustic      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
The final installment in a 4-part series on the Inaugural Collection of the Heirloom Cacao Preservation initiative (HCP).

Due to the C-spot's® involvement in the project, this chocolate is unrated.
Appearance   -- / 5
Color: purpled-pink
Surface: scored in fine lines
Temper: twinkling optics
Snap: dainty
Aroma   -- / 10
flat out of the box
eventuates spice / herb -- sugar (yes, a spice) & tobacco
black fruit by cigarette burn
Mouthfeel   -- / 15
Texture: soft teething
Melt: aglutination
Flavor   -- / 50
milkish chocolate -> soft caramel -> minor nut skin, then jatropha & profile spins a bit off track… first on chayote (think bitter cuke), then a stringent rail straddling pastry flour on one side & abui (cream sapote) on the other (both significantly cocoa butter driven) which soon blanks this bar until a feral fruit sighting, tremendous at that -- blacks from the Aromatics (black cherry, blackberry, black currant) -> backs out a lactic bramble patch & black birch
Quality   -- / 20
The fruits of Daniel O'Doherty's labor at the Hawai'i Agricultural Research Center blossoming forth. He the crack ferment specialist, especially with starter cultures that enhance flavor outcomes. The guy even some veteran pros go to for advice / insight. Hardwired & hardcore, O'Doherty rarely suffers fappy talk or extreme manipulations such as spiking ferment piles with sauerkraut or mayo (hey, cacáo freaks now geek on that stuff).

This chocolate similar to Heirloom I in genetics (their DNA signatures virtually overlap) & Heirloom II in organoleptics (both share a common trait in their dark-fruit impressions).

Difficult yet possible to see thru the drawbacks here (stringent, the main culprit) to this cacáo's guts & glory (huge volcano fruit potential, even in its latentcy here, shielded by the sugar rush & the butter block).

While the other 3 cacáos in the Inaugural Heirloom Collection (HCP I, II, III) hail from regions of indisputable legacy (Bolivia & Ecuador), Hawai'i strikes as a surprise... to some. Readers of this site were led on early however, years ago in 2010, that certain pockets of Hawaiian cacáo rival any origin in the world.

With a rising tide of planters & barsmiths on the islands, more & better should be just over the horizon.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter; CBS (Cocoa mass / Butter / Sugar ratio): ~3:4:4

Reviewed February 13, 2014


  

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