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Cacao 55%

by Kahkow
Info Details
Country Dominican Republic   
Type Semi-Dark   (55%; Lot No. 70-000024)
Strain Blend   
Source Dominican Republic   
Flavor Sugar   
Style Mainstream      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
On paper 55% usually signals a bar for the teething set still weaning off Milk Chocolate.

This Dark, which barely qualifies for the category, plays harder on the the gums (Texture) than on the tongue (Flavor). But there too it balls with a certain swagger for such an under-muscled frame.
Appearance   3.8 / 5
Color: a purple-trator notwithstanding the high sugar content… call it violet-brown
Surface: airside motion sickness
Temper: a bit dejected
Snap: KahKow's house specialty -- ready, willing & able
Aroma   8 / 10
from the lead No. 2 pencil in its 70% sib to the blue ink in its 62% & now this -- a ream of paper -- maybe chocolate just fronts for Kahkow's real business -- stationary supplies?
add dried currant + a green tea hangover from the 62% bar
quite the array for 55%
Mouthfeel   10.9 / 15
Texture: shatters into shards
Melt: endless globules
Flavor   43.6 / 50
vanilla cream -> Halloween candy corn -> honeycomb -> caramelized almond of subtle but lasting strength -> child's cocoa -> Turkish fig Newton
Quality   16.3 / 20
Sweeter version of KahKow's 70%. A flavor progression built on stasis. But contender to Caoni for being among the best-built 55%s in history.

Though sweet, it rarely cloys. Better still, it integrates the sugar, indeed compensates for all of it, by over-refining the particles to undetectable microns in the Texture which, alas, gum up the works some.

All things considered, an impressive constellation & concentration of flavor pooling together.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter, vanilla, lecithin

Reviewed March 24, 2014

  

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