Dark Milk - Burned Sugar

by Omnom
Info Details
Country Iceland   
Type Milk Chocolate   (55%; Batch 061)
Strain Blend   
Source Dominican Republic   (+ Belize cocoa butter)
Flavor Earthen   
Style Neo-Modern      
Burned Sugar… perhaps an experiment gone awry in the lab now that barsmiths in several locations busily & bullishly caramelize their innovations.

Maybe an accident-turned-PR opportunity right up there with other euphemisms such as "green banana" filling in for gripping astringency, or "smoky character" for a bitter gas bag -- both the result of poorly post-harvested & processed cocoa.

Whether dumb luck or sheer artistry, Omnom tenders some found money in this bar which, like cold cash, should be honored & accepted just about everywhere.
Appearance   4.8 / 5
Color: gorgeous rosewood
Surface: immaculate complexion
Temper: glittering
Snap: high, sharp, & tight
Aroma   8 / 10
ocean breezes oxidize an incredible wooded / peanut / corn caramel complex, the first contributing to lead pencil No. 2
casein protein / putty
Mouthfeel   11.6 / 15
Texture: in sync with Flavor -- all waxed up
Melt: plodding
Flavor   44.3 / 50
"White Chocolate" beginning on butter 'n wax -> dodgy caramel -> candy corn -> umami flirts toward, but never reaches, toffee depths… hits upon golden mulberry instead & the bar switches 'on' for good -> Milk Dud® -> solid cocoa presence breaks thru in earnest & carries the payload to the final meltdown -> cardamom close
Quality   15.7 / 20
A light Dark-Milk… at least for a sizable portion of it

55% overstates the matter since most of the weight packs everything but cocoa mass.

Relatively blank for the first half or so (dense cocoa butter padding) & then that mass tips the scales of Flavor above & beyond its percentage to resolve on a bang.

Burned Sugar hardly a major actor -- certainly nothing extraordinary for the category -- though it probably animates the color & focus of the proceedings, especially in pressing dairy under its thumb since it never deteriorates, as in many MCs, into milk powder marks. Then again, milk comprises the last & least of the ingredients. Sugar also might very well propel & buttress that late stage emergence of a relative Dark-Milk finale. And, in a larger sense, cooking the sugar reduces the perception of, without sacrificing any, overall sweetness.

Another one of those bars from Omnom which at first blush / first impression tastes ho-hum but on second thought / second take really grows in impact -- a growth spurt in fact. Considering the repetition of their ineffable feats, these guys apparently know what they're doing rather than just winging it by instinct.

INGREDIENTS: sugar, cocoa butter, cocoa mass, milk powder

Reviewed May 9, 2014


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