Various Bars

by Middlebury Chocolates
Info Details
Country USA   
Type Dark   
Strain Blend   
Source (Dominican Republic; NIcaragua)
Flavor Earthen   
Style New School      
After crawling, then taking baby steps, Middlebury Chocolate now makes significant strides.

This bundle of bars the proof in the chocolate.

The following details a Chocolate Blast– 4 reviews in 1. the C-spot®still maintains its actual sampling policy of only ‘1-a-Day’ in order to obtain an accurate & thorough gauge on a chocolate; as well as to avoid inevitable palate fatigue which occurs with multi-samples in a compressed time session. For the sake of publishing efficiency, they’re consolidated into this single review. The overall rating & metrics (upper right) reflect a composite average of each bar's individual measures.
Appearance   3.8 / 5
Color: on the "dark side", especially the White (that's right, the "Dark-White")
Surface: whorly backs
Temper: fudged glazes
Snap: generally sound
Aroma   7.4 / 10
100 Percent
dazzling cinnamon-flintstone… sets first into bluestone & next a white pavement (stone grinding, folks) -> ash, good ash like hash

Dominican Republic (Elvesia; Öko Caribe) 75%
pork pie

Nicaragua (Matagalpa) 70%
super fine pipe tobacco

Nicaragua (Matagalpa) White
tobacco lite (low tar 'n nicotine)
Mouthfeel   11.6 / 15
Texture: clumpy
Melt: above average lengths
Flavor   42.9 / 50
100 Percent
first impression of the Aroma holds pretty faithful but very briefly as the the second just blands & practically blanks out into cocoa butter; even so, it hides the underlying bitter only so much

Dominican Republic (Elvesia; Öko Caribe) 75%
fleeting fruit (prune) -> treacle to sweet mol-ashes in the best sense (smoked sap) -> that black sugar carries the flavor into a black mission fig -> rum-kola finish -> walnut wood after-impression

Nicaragua (Matagalpa) 70%
mulberry-caramel the dominant flavor presiding over red fruit at the fringes -> light sweet spice -> date -> that pipe sense in the Aroma closes out along with vanilla

Nicaragua (Matagalpa) White
another bland, even blank piece… nothing really but tactile slickness… until the last trimester when a faint baby formula Milk Chocolate secretes from the fat globules followed by a tannic tobacco leaf; nice wrap
Quality   16 / 20
100 Percent
Unremarkable. Harkens back to the 100%s of the 20th century -- grimy & gruff.

Dominican Republic (Elvesia; Öko Caribe) 75%
Wobbles about some in the beginning & even threatens to disintegrate but just the opposite occurs -- the bar gains strength as it progresses thru the meltdown.
Where Fruition's sweeter 68% edition of Öko Caribe furnishes greater range &, oddly, swaps out the molasses here for coffee, this owes much of its character to Middlebury's wood-roasting that imparts depth charges & smoky contrails without burning a cacáo that evidently can take ample heat. A good companion bar to the other Middlebury D.R. -- La Red.

Nicaragua (Matagalpa) 70%
Simple, clean & very good. NIcaraguan chocolate can be spotty / dicey. This one clearly a good seed lot (Giff Laube's CBN popularized by French Broad's success). Nothing glam or sexed, just one of Middlebury's best.

Nicaragua (Matagalpa) White
The swarthiest cocoa butter ever, well beyond even Vestri's shade, the erstwhile standard.
A browner hue than many Milk Chocolates. Unfiltered / unclarified / unsweetened. The equivalent of extra-virgin first-pressing.
Despite the color, flavor proves weak, at least initially, as high anticipation produces an equally deep letdown for all but the final stanza. Warmer roasting might coax these compounds out a bit stronger / longer.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar (except 100 Percent), cocoa butter; Nicaragua (Matagalpa) White -- cocoa butter only

Reviewed January 13, 2015


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