Box Chocolate Review


Info Details
Country Bahamas   (Nassau; Paradise Island)
Style Mainstream      
Boxed chocolate is where cacáo goes on Sunday afternoons.

Graycliff serves it up daily for comfort fare.
Presentation   3.4 / 5
stock packaging (box, design, plastic trays)
machine-grooved molds within
Aromas   3 / 5
Textures/Melt   8.1 / 10
Shells: thick, bullet-proof walls
Centers: generally the opposite
Flavor   44.3 / 50
no mistaken IDs… easily identifiable & well-articulated with solid / strong chocolate bases whether Dark, Milk or White
Quality   25.9 / 30
Nothing daring; pretty standard combinations. Nor much in the way of pastry finesse & flair.

But, wow, some real down home-cooking with great pop sensibilities.
Couverture: in-house
Chai Tea -- Milk Choc thru & thru… & as much pumpkin pie as chai; cozy & comforting

Bacon -- a fat pig of a piece with sloppy feet & monster hammy flavor; Graycliff could've spared the swine & just re-melted some PNG Morobe from the likes of Amano, Omnom, Ducasse, or Mast Bros

Hazelnut -- hard Milk Chocolate bite; timid hazelnut that misfires some butterscotch more than gianduia

Nutella -- better than the jar variety thanks to a thick Dark Choc shell that furnishes the spread with some much-needed backbone

Pineapple Goat Pepper -- no spark / heat, just sweetly-sick putty in White Chocolate enamel

Mint -- a healthy dose of the herb + the cocoa, each joined in clarity, strength & balance; executed with aplomb

Goat Cheese -- immediate, identifiable, & shockingly innovative because Graycliff elects to house it in a White Chocolate shell with coconut shreds; tastes far less abysmal than it sounds

Pistachio -- dressed in White Chocolate; terrific juxtapose even if the White acts rather industrial, the green nut meat lays it out into savory peanut-like territory

Mocha Praline -- the name only partially states it, add huge prune accents (presumaably the interaction of cocoa-on-coffee); perfectly struck balance of forces; stunning mold-architectures completes this world-class piece

Almond -- white nut meal inside Milk Choc; slight off-chalk point prior to vanilla-caramel wresting the progression; all's fair which ends there

Vanilla Bean -- only the heart-shape separates what approximates a standard Dark-Milk chocolate

Mint -- another in a series of White Choc-based ganaches; perhaps peppermint, emphasis pepper; spice hot… kitchen improv?

Brandy Cherry -- been some time since sampling this old standby classic, now passé to the nouveau scene stuck on salted caramels & chili pepper truffles; brandy the difference maker here, adding depth & interest; a welcome re-introduction by Graycliff

Peanut Butter -- salted Milk Choc; direct hit of the original intent before Reese's® dove into pleated spud cups

Key Lime -- yet another White robe & somewhat pasted with chalk, none of it however stops Graycliff from encapsulating a true infusion of this piece's namesake; easy

Salted Caramel -- slays it

Reviewed June 30, 2014

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