Box Chocolate Review

Graycliff

Info Details
Country Bahamas   (Nassau; Paradise Island)
Style Mainstream      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Intensity
Complexity
Impact
Boxed chocolate is where cacáo goes on Sunday afternoons.

Graycliff serves it up daily for comfort fare.
Presentation   3.4 / 5
stock packaging (box, design, plastic trays)
machine-grooved molds within
Aromas   3 / 5
encased
Textures/Melt   8.1 / 10
Shells: thick, bullet-proof walls
Centers: generally the opposite
Flavor   44.3 / 50
no mistaken IDs… easily identifiable & well-articulated with solid / strong chocolate bases whether Dark, Milk or White
Quality   25.9 / 30
Nothing daring; pretty standard combinations. Nor much in the way of pastry finesse & flair.

But, wow, some real down home-cooking with great pop sensibilities.
Selections
Couverture: in-house
Chai Tea -- Milk Choc thru & thru… & as much pumpkin pie as chai; cozy & comforting

Bacon -- a fat pig of a piece with sloppy feet & monster hammy flavor; Graycliff could've spared the swine & just re-melted some PNG Morobe from the likes of Amano, Omnom, Ducasse, or Mast Bros

Hazelnut -- hard Milk Chocolate bite; timid hazelnut that misfires some butterscotch more than gianduia

Nutella -- better than the jar variety thanks to a thick Dark Choc shell that furnishes the spread with some much-needed backbone

Pineapple Goat Pepper -- no spark / heat, just sweetly-sick putty in White Chocolate enamel

Mint -- a healthy dose of the herb + the cocoa, each joined in clarity, strength & balance; executed with aplomb

Goat Cheese -- immediate, identifiable, & shockingly innovative because Graycliff elects to house it in a White Chocolate shell with coconut shreds; tastes far less abysmal than it sounds

Pistachio -- dressed in White Chocolate; terrific juxtapose even if the White acts rather industrial, the green nut meat lays it out into savory peanut-like territory

Mocha Praline -- the name only partially states it, add huge prune accents (presumaably the interaction of cocoa-on-coffee); perfectly struck balance of forces; stunning mold-architectures completes this world-class piece

Almond -- white nut meal inside Milk Choc; slight off-chalk point prior to vanilla-caramel wresting the progression; all's fair which ends there

Vanilla Bean -- only the heart-shape separates what approximates a standard Dark-Milk chocolate

Mint -- another in a series of White Choc-based ganaches; perhaps peppermint, emphasis pepper; spice hot… kitchen improv?

Brandy Cherry -- been some time since sampling this old standby classic, now passé to the nouveau scene stuck on salted caramels & chili pepper truffles; brandy the difference maker here, adding depth & interest; a welcome re-introduction by Graycliff

Peanut Butter -- salted Milk Choc; direct hit of the original intent before Reese's® dove into pleated spud cups

Key Lime -- yet another White robe & somewhat pasted with chalk, none of it however stops Graycliff from encapsulating a true infusion of this piece's namesake; easy

Salted Caramel -- slays it

Reviewed June 30, 2014
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