Brazil 70%

by Choklat
Info Details
Country Canada   
Type Semi-Dark   (70%)
Strain Amazon   
Source Brazil   (Bahia; Floresta Azul)
Flavor Fruits & Flowers   
Style Mainstream      (w/ an Industrial nod)
Theobroma cacáo’s the stuff of the gods. If so, then this bar represents the fat wrinkled back of God’s hand giving the children not so much a slap (can’t do that; that’d be a no-no nowadays: punishment) but a light tap in the mouth.

What a shame that that's just where Choklat's at.
Appearance   4.8 / 5
Color: light medium-brown with faint orange splash
Surface: another looker from Choklat; near perfect
Temper: semi-matte
Snap: sharp at a lower frequency; solid edge
Aroma   7.8 / 10
same out-gassing detected in Choklat’s Porcelana (is there an issue with the added cocoa butter?) -> tobacco & tea -> wild cream (RE: inga-cipo, vanilla included) + jaca (jackfruit) -> resinous teak underfoot -> eventually produces paradis- nut (think exoticized brazil nut [naturally]) against some bottom basin cocoa bouncing off rubber; strapping big to fill the room
Mouthfeel   9.4 / 15
Texture: hardened plasticity
Melt: plodding
Flavor   41.1 / 50
immediate red burst (cherry twist with caju) -> creamy thing (inga-cipo) -> throws down some rubber (OK) & tonka bean (better) for trace bitter -> doused in vanilla creates Milk Choc variant... hmmmm -> butter strangulates (damn; as with Choklat’s other bars) in between cookie sandwich (expressing vanilla) -> coffee drips -> breadfruit / jackfruit -> soft red again (strawberry) in & around wafer action -> rare fruited loops (feijoa) spritzes up a juice cocktail (accented strawberry, wondrous goose berry, guava, & açai) -> clears with a welcome stringent finish
Quality   14.3 / 20
A good bean, perhaps even a great one, except the processing mutes much of its profile.

Among Choklet’s most meticulous outputs. Even so, there’s no getting over the awkward butter cut-ins (oh, if only to capture this cacáo in the hands of Cluizel or one of the Tuscan masters – Domori and Amedei - who excel in that art).

What can be gleaned thru the fat is a Brazilian cocoa sourced from Jim & Lola Lucas’ Fazenda Venturosa in Bahia of more polish / civil flavor flags than virile Diego Baduró’s or S-B’s Tomé-Açu, though no less exotic.

A cacáo endowed with a lot of game; core chocolarity never alone, always lathered in some overlay, of strong stamina.

The Lucases are obviously tending to their business in the form of a very intriguing crop. Wouldn’t it be nice to get a clearer window on it?

ING: cocoa mass, sugar, cacáo butter, vanilla; CBS (Cocoa Mass/Butter/Sugar ratio): ~4:3:3(huh??????? no way)

Reviewed Autumn 2010


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