by Friis Holm
Info Details
Country Denmark   (via France [Bonnat])
Type Dark-Milk   (55%)
Strain Blend   (Chuno + Nicarugo)
Source Nicaragua   
Flavor Earthen   
Style Rustic      
Cacáo & dairy represent the flower & the bee of the cocoa industry (with sugar the nectar in between). Mixing Milk Chocolate then approximates the activity in the honeycomb: one the honey dripper, the other the honey dipper.

This the money bar from the honey jar for thee to “love the more”.
Appearance   3.4 / 5
Color: tan pink
Surface: a stressed-out hot-mess (pinholes, scuffs, release marks)
Temper: distraught
Snap: bitchy
Aroma   7.7 / 10
cream-driven into a chocolate-fromagerie (a sort of buttercup ala the triple-creamed Délice de Bourgogne) -> soft hay above some underbrush -> light spice cloak & faint berry
Mouthfeel   12.1 / 15
Texture: Wax Factor™
Melt: turgid
Flavor   44.6 / 50
roars out a flash spice, then honey-sweetened dates & caramel quickly overtake it to buttery caramel corn -> butter toffee brittle -> buttered pecan completes the theme -> casein creeps in to shut down the progression; even so, some salted-almond pops-up with an herbal dimension (boldo leaf) -> bee pollen & honeycomb the after-length
Quality   15.8 / 20
Bonnat, the barsmith behind this private label offering, is no stranger to the Dark-Milk category. In fact, he stands among its vanguard with his trio of bars from Java.

So many variations on cocoa & cow’s butter as a condiment in this compound that Milk & Chocolate might as well be bystanders.

That only-from-France (well, maybe second only to Switzerland or Tyrol) whole cream milk powder (even the off-putting casein creates unexpectedly positive side-effects) just saturates the high cacáo butter-content of these Nicaraguan beans (witnessed in the Chuno 70% butterball). And they grow fatter together, thumping the flavor chords.

If Zotter’s 50% MC is Nicaragua sublime & otherworldly, then this plants the symbolic earthly root of it.

ING: cocoa mass, sugar, milk powder, cacáo butter

Reviewed August 24, 2011


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