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Info Details
Country France   
Type Dark   (70%; Batch Date 10/01/12)
Strain Beniano   
Source Bolivia   (Rio Bení)
Flavor Naked   (with Fruits/Flowers)
Style Classic      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
With dreamy poetics Baudelaire penned Les Paradis Artificiels in 1860 under the influence of kef / hashish. The result: pure mirth.

A rather short work of some 150 or so pages (well, short in terms of the pre-tweet world of 140 characters limit), he intuits that the longer a piece, the weaker the connection that it has been channeled from the source at the inspiration point... be it a muse, an intoxicant, or deity. Heaven after all is not verbose. And, besides, more talk = more lies.

Which all means God must be Twitter.

This bar approximates that book. Both subjects -- kef & cocoa -- sell by the gram, are brown, & embody reveries.

Chocolate, a man-made invention, tapped from the garden of Amazon.

As the great symbolist himself would probably describe it, ‘a beauty with bruising breasts’.
Appearance   3.9 / 5
Color: ravenous deep-purple 'n black
Surface: classic tablet scored 4x6; uneven pour (wavy sculpture in fact); feet flopping off the mold; a bit nicked
Temper: embeds a thick molten viscosity
Snap: perfect pitch; bravo
Aroma   8.6 / 10
a thundering chocolate slab right across the nasals, undercut by a puff of hibiscus (especially its marshmallow-like flower) -> reserved pomegranate + a small plot of earth / soil / kef
Mouthfeel   12.4 / 15
Texture: typical for Bolivia -- bumper guards of firm latex rubber
Melt: big swell (despite no lecithin)
Flavor   46.8 / 50
gentle purple rain (those fruits in the Aroma, except hibiscus switches toward its rhubarb guise) onto soft chocolate slate -> gradually grows waxen... that steadies over a darkwave to several shades of brown --
a) walnut fudge brownie;
b) lite pepper & poppyseed at the side recesses;
c) chicory & hashish;
d) dark forest pound cake;
e) equally dark honey-pot sweet-spot at the back;
f) (for Finally) cinnamon cap
Quality   17.1 / 20
The rage of Beniano cacáo started by Felchlin with Cru Sauvage continues unabated. It now boasts a raft of followers in its wake.

Just based on name alone, this invites company & comparison to the other Silvestre: Rogue's. That bar fits the generalized profile for Benianos -- Fruits/Flowers.

But A. Morin crafts somewhat an outlier; a stronger / bolder Bolivian of relatively narrow range in league with Bojesen's interpretation of the same seed type. Quite Naked in fact (mainly core cocoa flavor) exhibiting few highs or fruited highlights seen in other bars incorporating this origin.

In a similar though less dramatic fashion to Marcolini with his middle-period Madagascar, A. Morin darkens the impressions, clipping the upper registers with a roast that heats to the edge without burning, to demonstrate the depth of this river basin cacáo.

Extra cocoa butter then conditions the Texture (unusually forgiving for the origin) & the Flavor (zip / nil in the way of astringency / bitterness).

A solid brick of chocolate+ and a welcome add to the Rio Bení portfolio.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter


Reviewed December 13, 2012

  

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