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Info Details
Country France   
Type Semi-Dark   (75%)
Strain Amazon   
Source Brazil   (Bahia; Ilhéus)
Flavor Fruits & Flowers   
Style Classic      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Brazilians were justifiably outraged upon learning that their country was a target of the NSA's overseas spying ops, with billions of data bits swept up in Washington's over-the-top surveillance program.

Yet when it comes to the cloak & dagger of romance, all high-tech weapons appear fair game - at least to tens of thousands of Brazilians who downloaded "Rastreador de Namorados" (Portuguese for ‘Boyfriend Tracker’) to their smartphones before the stealthy software was removed from the Google Play app store.

"Brazilians are a jealous lot, what can I say? Of course it's going to be popular," said Marcia Almeida, a Rio de Janeiro resident whose marriage ended because of what she says is her husband's infidelity.

Jealous? Ah, add nosy & nefarious too.

To install Boyfriend Tracker, suspicious partners purloin their “lover's” smartphone & upload the masked app without leaving a visible icon on the target's mobile.

Marcia rationalizes: "It's a different type of spying" than the NSA surveillance program. "You're checking up on somebody you know intimately, not some stranger."

The app promises to act like a "private detective in your partner's pocket." Functions include sending the person doing the tracking updates on their partner's location, & forwarding duplicates of txt traffic from the targeted phone. Moreover, a command-cum-butt dial allows a user to force the target phone to silently call their own so they can listen-in covertly on what the person is saying.

Butt, hey, the perfect complement to a chastity device… tools for building trust now that there’s very little of it..

Maybe that explains why France’s Bonnat Chocolate chose to call this bar, which contains cocoa from Brazil, Kaori (re: 'flavor' in Japanese): it understands the sensitivities of jealous people.

Brazilian cacáo, French craft, & a Japanese name… all adds up to a global baddass of a chocolate.
Appearance   4.3 / 5
Color: deceptively straight brown... with purple, crimson, & even orange hues
Surface: professional pour
Temper: Bonnat's usual glisten
Snap: qweeka (Brazilian percussion instrument)
Aroma   7 / 10
first draft mainly sour diesel, vinegar, cream of tartar & film bath developer
settles down some into berry bushes & shrubs -> sticky pitanga / apricot
Mouthfeel   14.4 / 15
Texture: a porn star
Melt: interminable… all night long
Flavor   46.6 / 50
golden chocolate (cocoa with the yellowish goose-berry) generates a momentary flash pitanga (sweet orange-red) -> toasted choc hanging on cabreuva wood -> then sweet again (honey), then back to choc… see-saws this way & that… toggles next between the yellow caja umba / choc / starfruit / choc / araçá pera (wild guava) until a lattice work of honeycomb + butter -> roasted paradise nut in custard pudding -> white fruit (the translucent flesh of biriba) -> pure sugar cane -> sweet pineapple
Quality   18.3 / 20
Almost all bars reviewed for the C-spot® have been opened with the hope, if not quite the expectation, of being wowed. This one was approached fearing the worst because after 30 Bonnat bars entering the Chocolate Census -- most of them very-to-exceedingly-good in an embarrassment of riches -- it feels about time that the label would be overdue for some dead-weight issue.

Not so fast.

Yet another achievement from this venerable house -- the 4th in its Brazilian quarteto (Juliana, Maragnan, & Libânio the others).

Sourced directly from a family plot in Brazil cultivating 2 types of cacáo, each of rather homogenous germplasm.

Kaori, the bar, owes to one of them -- a bland tasting seed with a pulp that's, astonishingly, anything but. Its reducing sugars evidently account for the fruit matrix that drips its way into this bar.

Quite unique in its panoply of sweetness; an enticing tongue opposite that dreadful nose; a mild-mannered chocolate-fruit cocktail medley; unlike the more customary feral fruit packs for the origin.

One of the most even-pitched chocolates ever. Nothing so much as strikes & attacks / assaults the senses (except for maybe the Texture which body-slams the pal [for palate] & coats it in TLC).

What it lacks in magnitude Kaori makes up for with quiet dynamism… a continuum of light-colored fruits in gently oscillating currents with cocoa. And cocoa butter becomes the grand intermediary twixt the upper register & lower realm. Huge in fact. Its own flavor, however neutral, fits the overall profile, especially toward the back whence it dovetails with the generalized whiteness of the progression. It also contributes to some superb length.

Sheesh, another unassailable release from Bonnat.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter

Reviewed June 26, 2014

  

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