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Idilio con Leche

by Idilio
Info Details
Country Switzerland   
Type Milk Chocolate   (42% cacáo; Lot 31348 1323)
Strain Playa Alta   
Source Venezuela   (Bolivar; Orinoco River Basin)
Flavor Earthen   (x meadow flowers)
Style Mainstream      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Exporting anything out of Venezuela these days, with the country’s contentious political situation, rises to the level of smuggling. It transfigues the Swiss boys at Idilio into that Nicolas Cage character in Lord of War, Part II. He sitting in front of his computer for hours as hired commander of botnets taking out national systems on orders of whoever pays top dollar (or yuan) that day while checking his deposits at his St. Gallen-based, nth time removed fortress-like bank account. A lot of "24-esque" type of dialogue takes place, like, ‘yeah they had to grease a few palms (& tongues as the case may be) to reach payload but, damn, that was worth it’.
Appearance   4.5 / 5
everyone lauds the textured wrapper (made from cacáo pod shells)… carrying a scent of art-class construction paper & an aesthetic of inside-out architecture; nice touch for sure -- but usually at the expense of the contents that are often ignored as an after-thought (think of all the wallpaper wrappers masquerading as chocolate makers today)… oh, the whims of up selling retailers
funny though, like the fussy French, with all this Swiss precision to detail, both countries seal their bars in the flimsiest / chintziest foil, completely useless for re-wrapping once opened
Color: ruby suntan
Surface: smudged (otherwise immaculate)
Temper: matte
Snap: a rare clarion of a Milk Choc
Aroma   8.7 / 10
deep cream, deeper than butter, down into the grass-green pastures & fresh meadows abloom in Spring
Mouthfeel   10.4 / 15
Texture: Wax Factor™ to the max
Melt: slick, sleek, & slippery
Flavor   46.1 / 50
quick draft of flowers, sprouts & baby's breath -> dairy surges in & pauses to allow substantial cocoa butter to melt thru some -> proceeds to vanilla-cream, then light caramel with a rear umami -> distant Milk Dud® -> cocoa milk accented in violets (sublime)
Quality   17.3 / 20
No mistaking: largely about the dairy -- a triple-clotted knot of it (see ingredients below). Cocoa mainly as butter rather than mass. The Texture at first burdensome, then oleaginous. Both conspire to suppress, though by no means thwart, Idilio's Orinoco cacáo utilized for the base here.

This trans-posits its Dark bar tags of dried fruit & tonka beans toward florals (including that queen of orchids -- vanilla).

Beneath & beyond all the fat, a lovely chocolate that bears resemblance to Zotter's rapturous Nicaragua MC which also taps Alpine milk. Hmmm… something about those mountainsides.

INGREDIENTS: sugar, cocoa butter, cocoa mass, whole milk powder, skimmed milk powder, cream powder

Reviewed February 18, 2015

  

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