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Info Details
Country France   
Type Dark   (Semi-Dark; Dark-Milk; Milk Chocolate)
Strain Hybrid   (T Clonal Series)
Source Vietnam   (Mekong Delta)
Flavor Spices & Herbs   
Style New School      (flavor-wise)
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
A Chocolate Bar Blast –- 4 reviews in 1. Overall rating & metrics (upper right) reflect a composite average of each seed or bar's individual measures.

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In the annals & origins of chocolate, Vietnam's flavor journeys along a trippy-sorcery route.

The manner with which the French label A. Morin approaches cacáo from this SE Asia country pays heed to Rimbaud's "rational derangement of all the senses".
Appearance   3.7 / 5
Color: on the lighter side of brown, including one of the ruddiest bars ever
Surface: brushed
Temper: flash 'n splash
Snap: irrepressible
Aroma   8.8 / 10
Noir 74%
compact & concentrated
yes, the now-fabled Vietnamese fragrant intoxicants + huge dried cranberry fruit & blossoms
add in mandarin marmalade too
bordering cologne / soap intensities

Noir 65%
a brown out: brown soil, brown sugar, brown cocoa

Lait 48%
some nutty French cheese ala Valais Raclette

Lait 42%
more fromagerie from Morin: a smoked tomme de savoie
Mouthfeel   13.2 / 15
Texture: big cocoa butter
Melt: major carriage along distant marathon runs
Flavor   46 / 50
Noir 74%
gradual developer… cocoa… biscuit… nut butter 'n powdered cranberry jelly -> that marmalade in the Aroma makes an apparition, & all of it together just aerates the olfactory chamber… rides it & accumulates tell-tale VIetnamese spices / fragrances / resins (cinnamon / frankincense / oud / poppy seed & sandalwood) -- the new Traditional 5-Spice, Viet-style

Noir 65%
cocoa -> nuts -> brown sugar avalanche triggers a tamarind slide (both the sweet & tart varieties) -> minor rootstock & vines -> torrified cashews -> late breaking puckering brownie

Lait 48%
instant caramel & hard on its heels that now-familiar Viet spice-rack pack -> pastry roll dough slathered in butter cream -> sugar donut -> wet cotton (fits well)

Lait 42%
straight cream, farm fresh & butter rich -> slow churning caramel… ever so gradually picks up those identifiable Vietnamese nuances in a subtle lift to a glorious resolution of cinnamon-sandalwood awash in Milk Chocolate
Quality   18.2 / 20
Noir 74%
Lot 290814
Beautiful exposition from scent to meltdown. Not since Patric PBJ has such a sandwich bar been brown bagged. This surpasses that for it occurs without any additives whatsoever other than sugar.
While quite the complex, Fruits 'n Flowers predominate by the 2nd half. Quite the period too of superb length which elongates the euphorics. A touch more bottom bass note would let this bar into full boogie tilt.
INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter, lecithin

Noir 65%
Lot 270614
Intriguing combo of charred & tart, both only slightly though, to create a sort of internal blend at a percentage which Franck Morin himself feels the best balance for the seed lot. His informed & experienced judgment gained from crafting chocolate from this origin at varying cocoa-weights for Vietcacao and Erithaj.
INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter, lecithin

Lait 48%
Lot 040314
A heavier redux of Erithaj's Bén Tre 40% utilizing the same seed shipment. Morin really grooves the tracks on this: full yet considerate, a nod to regular Milk Choc early on & then this busies with Viet gongs of gastronomy.
INGREDIENTS: sugar, cocoa mass, cocoa butter, whole milk, lecithin

Lait 42%
Lot 280814
A little powder in the Texture cuts against the grain of Morin's own gold-standard. At 42%, add'l milk-sugar dilute the clearer impact found in the 48%. The tones imposing enough though so by the finish it plays pretty heavy on the palate.
These 2 Viet MCs, in concert with others, consolidate Morin's stake as a Master of Milk Chocolate.
INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, whole milk, brown sugar, cocoa butter, lecithin

Capsule Summary
Viet-Franco pleasure craft.

Reviewed May 4, 2015

  

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