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CSB Chama; Porcelana

by Soma
Info Details
Country Canada   
Type Semi-Dark   (70% & 75% cacáo-content)
Strain Criollo   (Ocumare; Porcelana)
Source Venezuela   (Zulia; Lake Maracaibo; El Chama)
Flavor Naked   
Style Neo-Modern      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
A Chocolate Daily Double –- 2 reviews in 1. Overall rating & metrics (upper right) reflect a composite average of each bar's individual measures.

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All chocolate derives from Theobroma cacao, well-noted & translated from Greek as "food of the gods", the fruit tree from paradise... on Earth -- a divine hell (thank you, Iago) upon which humans heap litter piled unto trash, a home-cum-bucket toilet. From the open ocean Atlantic Dead Zone to the Great Pacific Garbage Gyre, Gulf Oil Spill then onto land at Chernobyl & Fukushima….

Heaven supposedly doesn't have visiting hours; long-term residency only.

Meanwhile try these.
Appearance   4.7 / 5


Color: oh, yes, the lightness of pedigree'ing -- off-red
Surface: a newer stylized mold depicting an urban lakeshore etched in chocolate; swirling dervishes out back
Temper: softly reflective
Snap: strong / high velocity, doubly so for such a thin pour
Aroma   8.7 / 10
Porcelana
the simple stuff of the chocolate-gods
that breaded essence of Porcelana (both wheat & breadfruit) hoisted on just the softest nut wood branch sprouting a Spring green shoot, fixed with olive oil to harken way back to Amedei's early release of this varietal
one to get lost in

CSB Chama
Ocumare's raisin goodness & a li'l tang kick behind it
tonka-hay triggers golden caramel topped by a thin veneer of citrus marmalade
Mouthfeel   12.5 / 15
Texture: luscious without the butter weight (mite sugar grain on the CSB)...
Melt: … though it requires some maceration to let loose
Flavor   45 / 50
Porcelana
very fleeting / receding tiny kumquat flash spot -> breaded chocolate, lightly spiced, goes the distance -> hazelnut oil flows into macadamia -> olive leaf somehow elbows its way thru the density but back notes deflect it -> hay -> browned butter -> wildly sweet porcini -> parallel universes terminating in cocoa-powder cashew-milk

CSB Chama
peaceful beginning… very cashewy (ditto the Texture's fleshiness) -> just a touch of the Aroma's marmalade carries thru (orange blossom / apricot) -> a lone smoke wisp of roasted chicory -> streams away cocoa cream -> fruit echoes on the way down along with a Milk Chocolate closer
Quality   17.8 / 20
CSB Chama
70%; Batch CSB1
A reputed cross twixt Porcelana and Ocumare from the Estación Experimental Chama whose breeding programs provide sanctuary for some of Venezuela's prized varietals. Clearly this hybrid favors the Porcelana as Ocumare appears but a ghostly bystander (offering little in the way of its core chocolate principles).
Achingly delicate -- perhaps too much so to verge on non-distinct & a bit devoid. Lacks depth, such a shallow subsurface, & almost lacks presence in stretches altogether except for those fruit offsets & the smoke wisp.
All resolves well however.
No worries of any wash-up, cream-out, or blank drawing since those dappling fruits amplify the deeper the melt to keep piquing interest & bring some certified Milk Choc analogues along with them.
Given the reclined traits, this cacáo should easily be able to tolerate upwards of hi-70s, to even 80% cocoa-content which might sacrifice the more gentle cashew-cream slope for greater definition of the overall compounds.

Porcelana
75%; Batch POR1
Another wonderfully delicate strand.
Soma chooses a somewhat darker countenance in line with Coppeneur's -- no hallmark strawberries 'n cream to speak of for this genotype. In this lone respect it veers off from the prototypical Porcelana; otherwise it represents the pure strain. Some of this owes to the relatively high cacáo-content; the rest to a fairly substantial refinement.
It puts the vandalism of the first Porcelana manufactured in Canada in perspective, as well as in the rear-view.

Capsule Summary -- 2 bars; 1 flavor. And with taste like this just about everyone will double-down at Soma's table.
As per the depth chart of the premium choc niche, Soma now schools most of its peers in North America. Precision-crafted luxe sans the Euro heft.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter

Reviewed May 8, 2015

  

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