Puerto Cabello
Olajbogyó és Kenyér

by Rózsavölgyi
Info Details
Country Hungary   
Type Dark   (to Semi-Dark)
Strain Criollo   (generally speaking)
Source Venezuela   
Flavor Fruits & Flowers   (x Naked)
Style Classic      
Rózsavölgyi waxes (literally -- re: check the Texture section below) poetic (Puerto Cabello on the Caribbean Sea whose "waters are said to be so smooth that a single hair ["cabello"] could moor a vessel to the dock) & tails a superstar in this 3-bar Venzy trifecta called Mara.

A label that does it all.

Impossible to rate too high.
Appearance   5 / 5
Color: absorbing
Surface: none finer
Temper: entitled to arrogance
Snap: crackling
Aroma   8.6 / 10
Puerto Cabello
sweet & tangy

the ineffable heavy weight of nothingness aerates above fields of golden hay & tobacco
eventuates apricot

Olajbogyó és Kenyér
another slow developer… studied & understated mahogany oak -> plumes forth sharp palm frond & strawberry stems
Mouthfeel   12.3 / 15
Texture: soft rubber spring to it
Melt: languishing
Flavor   48.5 / 50
Puerto Cabello
acidic fruit punch right off including rose hips -> calms into the lower realms (cocoa, woods, fungi) -> flattens some into breadfruit -> revival on raisin -> cashew-pimento -> stages a 3rd wind around black currant -> clarified apple -> tannic cocoa-allspice

another fruit entrée (apricot / pitanga) -> almond-chooclate spread on bread -> hazelnut -> tangerine on chocolate-macadamia (outrageous) -> rides out gentle sweet-cream chocolate

Olajbogyó és Kenyér
initially heard more than tasted… first draw: breadcrumbs -> slick chocolate shortcake -> simple naked cocoa
Quality   19.3 / 20
Puerto Cabello
74% cacáo-content; Lot No. PC4001
Outstanding flavor load & broad in definition. Recalls Bonnat's seminal Puerto Cabello complex in the gen'l trajectory.
A big, grand chocolate. Among best-in-class for this regional-varietal.
INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter

70% cacáo-content; Batch M4003
Zsolt Szabad of Rózsavölgyi corresponded that Mara cacáo hails from the mountain region in Venezuela close to the Colombian border procured by Cacao San Jose. A natural mix rather than a single type comprising relatives with links to the Guasare genetic group bearing big & mostly pale colored seeds.
They transfer that trait into a chocolate so kind / so generous; so soft / so sensuous & so good most will not want to swallow for fear of postpartum depression when it'll be gone.
Utterly stupendous
One of the all-time greats.
INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter

Olajbogyó és Kenyér
77% cacáo-content
Neutered / devoid / bereft.
For instance, none of the goulash olive puke hurling forth from Vosges d'Oliva nor the stark fermentation accents of Pump Street's Sourdough.
Still, a fab 77% -- unctuous crunch / olives (both fruit & oil though less of the former than the latter influences the overall sensation) + bread. Just don't expect too much from the sound of all the differing ingredients… for they all congregate to integrate in a relatively narrow but seductive strip. Yet another 'wow' bar from Rózsavölgyi.
INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter, roasted olives, toasted bread, olive oil

Capsule Summary
At the top of the chocolate game. Zsolt Szabad of Rózsavölgyi joins the elite class of barsmiths currently forging the modern craft chocolate movement forward by highlighting intrinsic sweetness of cacáo rather than dumping immodest sugar loads into his bars.

Reviewed June 11, 2015


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