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Info Details
Country USA   
Type Dark   (75)
Strain EET   (Nacional germplasm)
Source Ecuador   (Balao; Camino Verde)
Flavor Spices & Herbs   
Style Old School      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
Chocolate transcribes a shadowy affair with sugar metaphorically bringing light to darkness.

The precocious Bryan Graham of Fruition, at his craft only a couple years, understands that wisdom, akin to glass, admits light & reflects it.

This an early stage beta-bar from an alembic of chocolate.
Appearance   4.7 / 5
Color: steely dark brown
Surface: Fruition's hypno-mould
Temper: buffed
Snap: bends, breaks & busts it
Aroma   9 / 10
rivals Moho's MC with Nibs in hilarity
a funway mix starting with graham crackers, specifically Fruition Bryan Graham crackers sopped in cherry cordial
custard flan
cinnamon red-hots + marshmallow hibiscus (shades of halcyon Colombia days) in cotton candy
airs off roasted cocoa
Mouthfeel   13.3 / 15
Texture: coarse grind / fine sand
Melt: sugar shatters faster than a windshield collision, quickly dissolves away, then cocoa particles magnetize back together in a ball of fat
Flavor   43.1 / 50
more subdued & steady than the Aroma
Textural sensations dominate the opening passages until registering malted cocoa -> granola rounds into dark coffee pound cake with mashed banana between the layers -> black walnut -> eucalyptus mint fuming -> vanilla dough-batter rolls into a sandwich to complete the Girl Scout® Cookie FX
Quality   15.8 / 20
An early-iteration from an experimental test batch. Then again, Fruition crafts prototypes that excel & exceed most other barsmiths' commercial production runs. Scale & volume oft arrive at the expense of meticulous attention to flavor detailing.

Hard to say if this should or will be the finished Texture. A delirium that tickles the taste buds, indeed distracts them, right up there with Prieto's Pop Rocks 66 (but without the audible crunch).

It certainly provides an added dimension. It backs off flavor integration some, while simultaneously furnishing undeniable traction -- literally / physically -- to the flavor sequence.

Particularly the eucalyptus / mint tags which carry tremendous clarity to squarely fit this in the herbaceous slot as those camphorous vapors fill the oral chambers.

Presumably one of the plantation pre-sets using proprietary-level regulation (probable starter cultures / inoculums) on the fermentation cycle at Vincente Norero's 1,000 acres christened Camino Verde (incorporated as Cocoa Sulagro) in Balao -- an area in Ecuador where the beleaguered Nacional has gone to survive. Other bars employing his designer-chocolate include Rogue's Baloa & that of the same name by Ritual.

A bar that should engender neither love nor hate... just a quality piece that plays it not quite straight but swerves down the middle.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter

Reviewed July 23, 2013

  

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