Heirloom IX: Piedra de Plata
Heirloom X: Apovinces

by Guittard
Info Details
Country USA   
Type Semi-Dark   (67% - 68% cacko-content)
Strain Nacional   (hybridized; EET)
Source Ecuador   
Flavor Crossover   
Style Classic      
As HCP (Heirloom Cacao Preservation) grapples with the definition of 'heirloom', one area left unaddressed remains that of the perennial nature of cacáo.

Recent modern-day heirlooms have yet to stand the test of time. More ancient types however prove their mettle & their worth, indeed are enhanced by their ability to withstand the vagaries year-in / year-out, time after time after...

Both of these latest entrants rise amongst the dependable &, as such, merit the designation apart from any representations herein.

Due to personal involvement with HCP, these bars are unrated
Appearance   -- / 5
Color: Heirloom X: Apovinces: pewtered purple
Heirloom IX: Piedra de Plata: muddy oxide
Surface: styled tableau molding
Temper: semi-dull
Snap: taut for such a thin pour
Aroma   -- / 10
Heirloom IX: Piedra de Plata
fruit-bombing the nare hairs, then goes strangely radio-silent before long

Heirloom X: Apovinces
malted candy corn breaks apart into bletted fruits -> sugary gumdrops -> some must, dust & rust -> blows out browned sugar
Mouthfeel   -- / 15
Texture: textbook
Melt: well clocked
Flavor   -- / 50
Heirloom IX: Piedra de Plata
biscuit preamble -> fusty cocoa -> sorghum -> stringent streak

Heirloom X: Apovinces
caramel cocoa with a Bosco® tone -> fruits into moraberry amongst a graham cracker patch
Quality   -- / 20
Heirloom IX: Piedra de Plata

Distinct in several ways:
1. A sub-selection of this forest's wider cacáo variety;
2. The most sugared & buttered Piedra to date;
3. Flat-lined flavor-wise (tastes overly oxidized beyond the underpowered formulation).

A chocolate out of alignment with this area's character. By comparison, refer to TO'aK's 2016 calibrated at 73%.

Heirloom X: Apovinces

The good growers / Bromans of APOV (Organic Vinces Producers Association) were featured in the Red-Bathing episode on this site back in 2010. They still tend to the time-honored ways, husbanding old trees, a cross between Nacional x Venezolano (RE: no CCN-51; though clear identification appears inspecific insofar as it relates to Venezolano, described by Preuss in 1901 as a Carúpano variety which by now would rank at least an F3 for 3rd generation later). All carted off to a central fermentary where they give it the traditional treatment: slow & easy.

This particular chocolate here is short-length by contrast but well-lived in congruity with the Bromans themselves.

INGREDIENTS: cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter

Reviewed December 8, 2016


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