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Info Details
Country Hungary   
Type Semi-Dark   (70%)
Strain Hybrid   (decent Criollo germplasm)
Source Venezuela   (Carabobo State; Las Trincheras)
Flavor Naked   (mostly)
Style Classic      
lo
med
hi
CQ
Sweetness
Acidity
Bitterness
Roast
Intensity
Complexity
Structure
Length
Impact
After riding in on a couple Venzy rock stars (Porcelana and Carenero), Rózsavölgyi performs a hat trick & pulls this out -- Trincheras -- (literally “trench” as in trenchant chocolate) to trump the others.

A village in the shadows of the famed Aragua Valley (RE: Chuao, Cuyagua, Choroni, et al.) sporting those special – it sounds so much heavier in Hungarian -- kakaobabjairol.

Las Trincheras, the place renowned for its thermal springs. There, Zsolt Szabad of Rózsavölgyi Csokoládé contracts with seasoned growers seeking to revive the old estates of the "Caracas Cacao" (the 19th Century trade-name for a cacáo variety -- albeit loosely-defined; basically the entire coastal Venezuelan growing region -- of esteemed quality). They tend to quite a genetic mix. Generally, however, their beans size-up quite large & contain many unclassified Criollos traits.

As the ferment on this particular bar attests, the old-timers in Las Trincheras are admirably extending the legacy with exceptional chocolate perfumes.
Appearance   4.1 / 5
Color: another light Dark bar from Rózsavölgyi
Surface: airpockets & divots (needs more treatment on the vibration table)
Temper: self-absorbed; waxen
Snap: thin & sharp
Aroma   9.1 / 10
breaded & bletted: bay leaf & soft tobac rise in wheat dough & baker’s yeast -> topped by fermenting apricot + mamey sapote
Mouthfeel   11.9 / 15
Texture: tough
Melt: time-consuming (eventually in a very good way)
Flavor   47.4 / 50
chocolate indeed... ripe, slightly tannic, cocoa sendoff -> bread & breadfruit (tremendous confab) -> pear compote smoked in bitter tobac backed by cider (sensational) -> vaporizes Poire Williams -> subsides back into cocoa w/ a Milk Choc cast; mamey sapote the after-length
Quality   18.8 / 20
This tablet shows Rózsavölgyi’s idea of chocolate & its now-patentable formula: pretty full-ferment (the cured pulp in particular loaded with lactic acid generating all that milkiness), low ‘n slow roasting curve that preserves the maximum compounds for a fairly refined conch.

The formulation works to perfection here because, in some ways, Trincheras cacáo’s intrinsic properties reside on the lighter side (even compared to Porcelana). So instead of those densely compressed bars Rózsavölgyi can be noted for, this feels leavened (despite Texture which again underscores the conche job as well as the added cocoa butter).

Good range & surprising depth, plus some rare sightings (Poire Williams? Superb!) put this in some highly respectable company.

ING: cocoa mass, sugar, cacáo butter

Reviewed April 2011

  

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